Sanliurfa boasts of many highly recommended attractions for visitors to the region. Nicknamed the “City of the Prophets,” most fit in with the historical travel genre, and the ancient Gumruk Hani was at the top of my bucket list.
Built in 1566, it was the main commercial centre. Tradesman met there to trade goods and if they were tired from traveling, used the bedrooms before continuing on their journey. Due to its importance as a business hub, many bazaars, and markets in old Sanliurfa established themselves around the building.
The most famous person to cross its threshold was the Ottoman traveller Evliya Çelebi, who lived from 1611 to 1682. His journal is highly regarded as one of the earliest forms of a guidebook and when I learned, he had visited the Gumruk Hani, I was eager to follow his example.
Entering the Gumruk Hani of Sanliurfa
I passed through the large-arched door, to find myself stood at the side of an open-air courtyard. Large umbrellas erected in various spots kept the sun out and on the edge of the courtyard were shops on the lower level and workshops on the upper level.
Instantly I noticed the ambiance. It was obviously a popular meeting place for locals. Everyone seemed to know each other and were seated in groups at tables, reading newspapers, holding in-depth conversations or playing the Turkish version of backgammon.
This building was more than 400 years old and would usually be my ideal place to explore. I would immediately inspect the architecture; people watch and speak to the locals. However, I felt extremely uncomfortable and just stood there, unsure of what to do. I tried to relax, by ordering tea and coffee but the uneasy feeling did not go away.
Nothing specific happened to make me feel that way. No one was rude and there were no incidents. I was charged the same price for drinks as the locals were. So what was my problem?
On that day, I would estimate roughly 50 to 60 people sat in that courtyard. All of them were male apart from me. I have never been intimated by the opposite sex but on this occasion, I was fearful of standing out as the foreign woman with a large camera.
Am I becoming a prude in my old age?
Did I suffer an attack on my confidence?
I am not sure what happened but am left with regret. I visited a historic building in Sanliurfa and my feminine pride stopped me from enjoying myself. On the way out of the door, an old man selling souvenirs stopped me.
“Are you a foreigner?” he asked
I falsely smiled and carried on walking. This was one occasion, where I knew I had failed to blend in and instead stuck out like a sore thumb.
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Nat says
atThere are suspected ISIS cells in Gaziantepe. Maybe this information is wrong. Maybe it is right. If it is right, they will more or less spread out over the southeast until caught. Tensions between the PKK and government have also been considerably higher of recent.This is fact. Myself, I just wouldn’t go because I would be looking over my shoulder every 2 minutes. There is also the fact that as a solo female traveller, I have to consider my safety more than a male does. If you do end up going, will you let me know how you get on?
Oliver says
atThanks for your reply Natalie! What do you think are the reasons not to go? Because of the Kurdish terrorist attacks? And Turkish military? Or why?
Thanks
Oliver
Nat says
atHi Oliver, Personally, myself I wouldn’t go especially as a solo female traveller. I’ve heard of other solo male travellers that have recently been in that direction, but I really would postphone your trip if possible.
Oliver says
atHey Natalie,
Just stumbled upon your amazing blog. Great article! I’ve been to Turkey twice and it’s one of my all-time favorites. And I’m considering visiting places like Urfa and the Tur Abdin this spring. Would your say that these regions are OK at the moment? Considering the situation in Syria and the Kurds?
All the best
Oliver
Nat says
atI didn’t feel in danger but as a female just felt considerably outnumbered!
Mehmet says
atI follow your blog. I newly read your southeast (Urfa- Gümrük Han?) experiences but it sad me. As usual a foreigner attracts attention in anywhere on globe. Be sure nowhere is dangerous in Turkey especially in Urfa. I expect you again in Urfa. Be my guest it will give me honour to being host for you. Be health and happy……
Nat says
atThat is interesting to know Jens – glad the word is getting out
Jens says
atHaving spend a few weeks and even months each of the last 6 years or so in Urfa’s old town and occasionally sitting down für a tea break in Gümrük Han? when visiting the fascinating and buzzling bazaar, I can certainly see your point here. But I also found out that the whole situation changed a bit – depending on day and time. Even more, I noticed that Urfa gots quite a lot of attention from western tourists the last year, which are becoming more and more visible in the city. Just a few days ago I was in the Han? again and I can assure that it is anything but a ‘men’s world’. True, there are almost no local females and older Kurdish men are somehow dominating, but I also noticed quite a lot of families and women around (basically tourists of course).
Elaine says
atToo bad you didn’t succeed … there’s always next time though!
Nat says
atYeah – I would not sit down either. That is an OTT reaction
Pamela Morse says
atThis happened to me in Morocco many years ago. I asked the local guide what would happen if i sat in one of the all male cafes..He said they would spit on me…so I decided it was not that attractive ..
Nat says
atThink the guidebook forgot to mention the fact about the cay houses. It was trying to promote the workshops and building but they neglected to mention, woman had to navigate through a field of men first!
Nat says
atBut the guide book never advertised it as a cay house. They were trying to promote it as an historical attraction.:(
Corinne says
atI definitely think the cay houses are for men, and for the most part I don’t really care to intrude but sometimes it’s the only place to sit in a village and have a drink. I’ve never really minded it, but feel a little out of place for sure.
Ellen says
atIt’s hard for a woman to blend in to those tea/ok houses anywhere in Turkey. It’s clear we are not wanted there, and people will stare at us. Don’t blame yourself for this!