Out of all the sites to see in Istanbul, the most intriguing has to be the grand and impressive Dolmabahce Palace. Home to the last six sultans of the abolished Ottoman Empire; it portrays everything that was right and wrong about their rule and reign for over 600 years. While it is easy to be in awe at the architecture and historical tales of their conquered lands, I simply had to wonder if any ruler, person or family deserved to live in such luxurious and wealthy surroundings.
Dolmabahce Palace was built between 1843 and 1856, at a time when life for the average person in Istanbul or the rest of the Ottoman Empire, was not easy or comforting.
How did the people of Istanbul feel when the Dolmabahce palace was finally completed with 285 rooms, 44 halls, 68 toilets and 6 Turkish baths?
Did they know that 14 tons of gold were used to decorate ceilings in gold leafs?
Staircase and ceiling
Did they wonder how much money was spent to source in pure crystals for the main staircase?
Did they feel resentment when 131 handmade silk carpets were ordered to be made in the nearby town of Hereke?
As if that was not enough, Queen Victoria of England also decided to show off her wealth by sending a crystal chandelier as a present. This chandelier is the largest in the world, consists of 750 bulbs, and weighs a massive 4 tons. The Tsar of Russia sent bearskin carpets and other world leaders sent expensive presents to complete the overall look.
After touring Dolmabahce palace and seeing the extraordinary and extravagant luxury that the last sultans of the Ottoman Empire lived in, I felt no sadness in the fact that their empire was carved up and abolished in 1923, while the last ruler was exiled from Istanbul and Turkey to hang his head in shame.
The Dolmabahce Palace Harem
Mothers, wives and concubines were all housed in the harem section at the back of the Dolmabahce palace. Listen to the official guides that conduct tours and you are led to believe that life in the harem was very dignified and filled with happy days of sewing circles and platting each other’s hair. However, books that have researched life in the Dolmabahce palace and Istanbul at that time, will tell you a different story of slaves, jealousy and an extreme amount of bed hoping.
The Selamlik for the Men
Located at the front of Dolmabahce Palace, is the selamlik, which was the men’s quarters and the place for official business in Istanbul. More impressive then the harem section, this is where the wealth and luxury is really displayed. Walls are awash with ancient paintings and halls are filled to the brim with hard carved, antique furniture. Viewing the section really does enforce the fact that the last days of the Ottoman Empire were filled with greed and a need to display self-importance to visiting leaders from other countries.
Ataturk’s Deathbed
When the Ottoman empire fell, Dolmabahce palace was used by the new government. The founder of that new government and indeed, the republic of Turkey was Mustafa Kemal Ataturk. He died in a bedroom of the palace in 1938. The most striking aspect of the bedroom he died in, is its simplicity. He could have chosen the more grand and lavish bedrooms, but he chose one that is so basic compared to the rest.
Was he also disgusted at the extraordinary luxuries that the Ottoman rulers lavished upon themselves?
Photos Are Not Permitted
You are not allowed to take photos inside of the palace, which is a great shame, as those areas are the most impressive. Dolmabahce palace in my opinion is also necessary to see if you are in Istanbul. For this reason, I have sourced photos from elsewhere and given credit where needed. You can also check this site for an impressive 3D tour of the rooms, halls and bedrooms of the harem and selamlik.
Dolmabahce Palace – 3D Virtual Tour
Dolmabahce Touring Tips and Opening Hours
You are not allowed to tour the inside areas on your own. You have to wait to join one of the scheduled tours that operate separately for the harem and selamlik. The tour guides are frankly terrible at their jobs and should be sacked. To appreciate the palace, I suggest a bit of background reading before you go, on its history and the last days of the Ottoman Empire. Tickets are not cheap but are worth the price, 20 lira for the harem and 20 lira for the selamik. Opening hours for the Dolmabahce Palace are 8am to 4pm every day except Monday and Thursdays.
Readers Question : The Dolmabahce palace is one of Turkeys prized possessions and should definitely be visited if you are in Istanbul. Have you been to the palace and would you also recommend it for a visit?
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Ottoman Empire still continuing by Turks (TURKIYE)
I can see what you are saying Martin but at the time the Dolmabahce was built, the Ottoman empire was no longer important. They had lost all their power, they were bankrupt and people were still starving on the streets.
I wonder if it is really helpful to judge the palaces of the Ottomans, Habsburgs, or Romanovs, or those of the British monarchy by late twentieth century standards? Historically, the splendour of the monarch gives to ambassadors and visiting foreign dignitaries a sense of the importance of the state. We don’t think that is important now; historically it was. In addition, monarchs performed important political and ceremonial roles. Today equivalent amounts of wealth are used to adorn the houses of celebrities, footballers, and oligarchs, who have no responsibilities to the state or the poor.
I Need information on the life of female and male “slaves” inside the Dolmabahce palace. How much freedom did the females have? How many rooms were they allowed to go to? Could they leave the palace with an attendant? What was the hierarchy of the male servants or slaves? Could male slaves leave the palace and go to their families?
What a beautiful palace. I wish we had, had the time to visit. Another reason to visit I guess!
I tried finding out Paul and come to a dead end. If they simply asked people to fill in a customer visit form, they would soon find out how terrible their guides are
Totally agree -the guide in main palace was quite good but the guide in Harem was a disgrace -he had only 4 facts and kept encouraging questions but answereing with the same 4 facts .
overall though the palace was STUNNING a must for Istanbul -ant ideas who we could complain to about guides -they let the Turkish nation down
Ha ha sold Kristy!! 🙂 Enjoy it. I look forward to reading your write up
Ok, I am totally sold now and we will totally be hitting this as well!
I felt compelled to add it Mary as that was not a little bit of extravagance, it was outrageous. I had to think how they could do that knowing their people were poor and hungry. Beyond belief!
Thanks for taking the time to question how the ordinary people must have felt with the huge contrast in wealth. It’s adds a nice thought pause for the reader.
They were terrible Cheryl. The guide for the men’s section was better however I still feel that I would have done better with a guidebook and touring on my own.
Thanks for the tips … it sucks to hear the tour guides are not good at their jobs, especially for such a beautiful and storied place. I’d definitely visit this place!
Where can I get one of those bed covers? 🙂
Ha ha Shane – What were you on? Maybe it was the Topkapi Palace
I’ve a memory of sitting outside Dolmabahce Palace watching the sun come up, except when I compare my photos to yours they look very different.
Where the hell was I that night?
From talking to people, quite a few have missed it because they went on the days it was closed
I’ve lived in Besiktas for a year and never visited Dolmabahce. When we went down there last year to take a look inside it was Thursday (sigh!)
A lot of people don’t see it Reena because it is not in the Sultan Ahmet area. Try to see it upon your return to Istanbul though as it really is an eye opener
True Rhia – a lot of people at the time of Victoria’s reign were definitely in poverty. Their own money instead of state money and no one would care I think. Back in those days, they did not want to question it though
Very true Di – Buckingham Palace is not exactly pale in comparison. This palace is a good site to see when you do make it
Exactly Angela – They placed more importance on their own well being than that of their citizens
Wow, this place looks beautiful! Wish I’d known about it when I visited Istanbul… oh well, next time! Thanks for sharing.
Even Queen Victoria’s gift was sickening in its splendor when most Brits were living in poverty. I wouldn’t mind if heads of state spent their own money on such gifts…rather than the country’s money!!!
I love your view on history Natalie and the introspection you take in exploring feats of architecture of the past.
English history is the same people starving while the kings and queens lived in luxury i still want to go and see it one day ..xx you make it all seam so real
Very interesting post, when you see so much luxury you really understand why such empires don’t last…
Yes, 14 tons of gold Abby. Quite sickening really. Fools gold!! The gardens are well kept and lovely, a stroll around them on a sunny day would be great but it was raining when I went
I always do wonder about lavish palaces Ali and whether rulers etc deserve to have such luxuries. Look forward to reading your posts when you get to Istanbul
That is the one shame Sherry – I am sure if the tour was not regulated, I would have had a better chance to understand life in the palace
If I was Vehdettin – I would have feared for my life as well. Read quite a bit on the presence of the British army in Istanbul during the last days of his rule and he was quite a wimp in reality. Totally different from all other rulers that had proceeded him. Thanks for the reads, looks like Yildiz Palace will go on the list of places to see when I return to Istanbul in April
14 TONS of gold?! Those gardens are stunning!
Looks like an amazing place, but it does seem irresponsible to build such a lavish place when that money could’ve been used for better things. I’ll add this to our list of possible things to see while in Istanbul in a few weeks!
No, I have not yet been here, but it looks so majestic that I’d love to go. I’m always fascinated by their architecture. What a shame for regulating the tour so much so that people can’t enjoy it.
Natalie, as usual, a fun and informative article. Did you know that the last Sultan, Mehmed VI (or Mehmet Vahdettin) was at Yildiz Palace and not at Dolmabahce?
Vahdettin so feared for his life that he had the palace built because he believed Yildiz was the safest place for him. It is located immediately across the road from Dolmabahce and in the park up the hill.
It is fart too frequently not on the “beaten path” and is worth a visit as is the park and the two large restaurants located in the two kiosk buildings in the park which were formerly palace buildings.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yildiz_Palace
Read this account of the last days of the last Sultan and how the British Navy smuggled him out of the country. (excerpt from From the Sultan to Ataturk: Turkey by Andrew Mango)
http://www.hauspublishing.com/author/4
Among the snippets I found interesting was this one that may interest the British in you:
“…the (anti-Kemalist) journalist Ali Kemal (whose greatgrandson Boris Johnson, also a journalist and polemicist, was to be elected Mayor of London 85 years later) had tried to make amends by admitting that he had been wrong and the nationalists right.”
A lot of people seem to miss it Andrea because it is on the Taksim side not Sultan Ahmet where all the other sites to see are. It turned out that it was only a short walk from my hotel
Have you guys moved on from Istanbul now? Looking forward to your posts
It is an amazing staircase Alan but all I could wonder is how many families could that cost have fed instead. Maybe my warped thinking but over the top on the luxury
Wow – we totally missed this one.
Those chandeliers are spectacular!
I can’t believe I missed this while I was there. So sad. It was closed the day I went. Nice shots. I can get the feeling of what I missed.
I remember being utterly stunned by the crystal stairway when I visited the place and that’s after seeing the tomb of Alexander Nevski in the Winter Palace in St Petersburg.
Nice post Natalie.
Amazing and very lavish Laurac!
It is a shame Christy about the photos. The outside pictures are mine but I would have loved to practise my photography inside as well, instead of having to reply on other photos to help tell my story
OMG! This place looks amazing!
I love exploring palaces – they’re always so sumptuous and luxurious! So annoying when they don’t allow photos, though. =/
Glad you agree with me Pat about the guides. I wish I had read up on the palace before going rather than after. I would have also paid gladly for a cheap book that would explain things as I walked around, instead of listening to useless information from the guides.
Entirely agree about the guides. Do no one any service, least of all the palace. Eventually they were scrapped in Harem at Topkap? so hopefully soon the same thing will happen here.