We drove into Sanliurfa on a small and crowded public bus. Every seat was occupied and people were squashed together while standing in the aisle. Everyone was chatting, staring straight ahead or at this foreigner sitting in their presence.
I ignored the stares because I could not make any more of an effort to blend in. I stood out and had to accept it. Instead, I focused on the sights that whizzed past as the bus followed its scheduled route and something was wrong. As I stared out of the window, Urfa was slowly disappointing me.
About Sanliurfa, the City of Abraham
In everyday conversations, Sanliurfa is shortened to Urfa. The extension of the name happened in 1984 to recognize the part that Sanliurfa played in the Turkish war of independence and Sanli means glorious. Although not popular as a holiday destination for foreigners, it is popular with Muslims because the town is thought to be the birthplace of the prophet Abraham (the same Abraham who was a patriarch in Christianity).
A important attraction within the town is the carp filled fish pool (Balikli Gol), also believed to be the place where Nimrod threw Abraham into the fire. God changed the flames into water and the wood into fish to protect Abraham.
The connection with Abraham and the Arabic influence is what I had traveled to the city to see. Instead, I saw a modern city with high-rise buildings, congested traffic and no historic landmarks. Where were the landmarks that earned it the nickname as the city of Abraham with strong roots in Islam and Christianity?
I knew there was no possibility that we caught the wrong bus. I sighed as my hopes of enjoying Urfa drained.
However, I loved Sanliurfa so what changed?
My severe criticism of Urfa was made in haste but it was a simple mistake. None of the guidebooks mentioned there was new Urfa and old Urfa.
Once we drove into the old part of the city, things went from bad to fantastic. Full of historic landmarks, buildings with Arabic influenced architecture and of course, the connection to Abraham.
This is what I was looking for
We arrived at the hotel and the manager was waiting for us. He said there were no other bookings so they wanted to change us to the sister hotel. This turned out to be a blessing as the new hotel was of a higher quality and had amazing Arabic décor.
We were given a room with a view of the castle and the new hotel actually served alcohol! As it is a strong Islamic city, alcohol is not widely available in Sanliurfa apart from some establishments where women trade favors for money. Drinking an ice-cold beer in a gorgeous hotel was more fun than battling through crowds of perverts in seedy back street bars.
Things got even better…
By now, my mood had improved but things were going to get even better. Everything to do in Urfa was within five hundred meters of our hotel. The only time we hired a car was to see the beehive houses of Harran on the outskirts of the city. The famous fish pool (Balikligul) and the cave of Abraham took just ten minutes’ walk to reach. I sat and watched as Muslims visiting the site paid great homage to the prophet of Abraham.
I always knew that Islam and Christianity had a connection through the Virgin Mary but it was a surprise to learn that Abraham also connects two of the world’s most popular religions.
I am not a religious person but to visit a site respected by both religions makes me realize that most people are similar despite our beliefs; we just do not like to admit it.
My Tip about Sanliurfa
Surrounding Urfa is the neighboring provinces and cities of Gaziantep and Mardin. If you can, visit all three but if you are struggling for cash or time, drop the other two and go to Urfa.
Now, the hard-core fans of the historic city of Mardin are probably going to curse me for saying that. The city is sitting on the list of UNESCO world heritage sites, waiting for approval and fans insist that Mardin is one of the must see places in the south east of Turkey.
For me, Urfa is a far better place for historic value, friendly locals, culture, and customs. I loved exploring the narrow backstreets and watching the locals.
Despite making bad assumptions at the beginning, I loved Urfa and was very sorry to leave.
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sorry to hear that guys but I would say you are wrong… Compare other southeast cities in the area Urfa is a safe city, very safe and people always welcome visitor
Dear Michaela, if you browsed name of Ur, you would see that Ur is actually the other name of Urfa 🙂 and Urfa is in the south east of Turket not even near to Iraq but Syria. The other names of Ur are Urfa, Sanliurfa, Reha, Ruha and Edessa. The city is known by it`s all names
as a local Urfa guy, I guess you mean “menengic” coffee guys. I would recommend it to anybody at least to try once.
I was at Urfa January 2016 (new years holiday), no problem at all. Even at late hours, there roads (in and around Urfa) were safe, no roadblocks by the securityforces…etc. The actual showings of the clashes are at east of Urfa, towards Diyarbakir and Mardin.
I know another blogger who was there about a month ago and he didn’t have any problems but at the moment, I would not go. It has been a while since I wrote this post and things have changed dramatically since then.
In your opinion, do you think that it is still safe to travel to Urfa, and do the potential risks outweigh the sights of the town?
Wow!! So beautiful u r!!! : )
Abraham was born in the city of Ur of the Chaldeans (present day Iraq). He traveled 500 miles to Haran (now southeast Turkey) with his family and stayed there until his father’s death. When God called Abraham, he moved 400 miles south to the land of Canaan and lived there most of the rest of his days.
Genesis 11-25; Exodus 2:24; Acts 7:2-8; Romans 4; Galatians 3; Hebrews 2, 6, 7, 11.
Haran is in Urfa but he wasn’t born there. Abraham left Haran moving away from his father and brothers with his wife, Nephew and family after God spoke to him. His family were worshipping another god and idols at that time.
Michaela 🙂
Hi Virginia, I have some friends who are tour operators and they are all still going there. I have not heard of any change since I last went but if you want to double check, the Turkey forum on Trip advisor is a good source of current info
Hi Natalie, thank you for this wonderful entry! I am interested in visiting Urfa (as well as Gaziantep, Mardin and other places in Southeastern Turkey) this April and am looking for some current information on the security situation in the region. Do you know if the conflict in Syria has affected any of the places a tourist might visit?
Thank you for reading Omer and glad you enjoyed – following you on Twitter now
As a British (born & live) in Urfa, it`s great to read your comments Natalie & all. Thanks very much. More than welcome if any of you need any help about that unique city.
I had a look at your site for articles about Urfa Alexandra but could not find them. Did you write about it? Would love to read them if you did
I loved Urfa! My day spent wandering the old alleys is one of my best memories from my time in Turkey! Thanks for the flashback.
Thanks for that Niyazi. It will definitely help with my research. I went to Gobeklitepe as well but still to publish that article.
The old name of Sanliurfa is Edessa, if you search with that name, you may find out more information about the history of the city and its importance in christian past and role in the crusades. The discovery and excavation of Gobeklitepe also reminded the importance of the city’s past: most probably the starting point (the big bang) of the known human civilization started right there 12-10 thousand years ago. 🙂
Hi Natalie, just to make easier for you to find out simillarities between christianity and islam in dailiy life practice, let me try to write down some prophet names in english and their counterparts in turkish. you shall be encountering them everyday I guess:
Jesus/?sa, Moses/Musa, John/Yahya, Adam/Adem, Eve/Havva, Noah/Nuh, Abraham/?brahim, ?saac/?shak, Samuel/?smail, Jacob/Yakup, Joseph/Yusuf, Aron/Harun, David/Davud, Solomon/Süleyman, Eliah/?lyas, Zacherias/Zekeriya, Shelah/Salih, Jonah/Yunus, Mary/Meryem, Angel/Melek, Gabriel/Cebrail, Michael/Mikail, Benjamin/Bünyamin. And some non-monoistic names: Cybelle/Sibel, Alexandre/?skender etc. etc.
People said to me to do Mount Nemrut while I was in Urfa Lisa but I thought it to be too far away. Saving it for another time.
I spent several hours in Urfa after seeing Mt. Nemrut and totally understand why you liked it as much as you did. It was cool visiting the fish pool, the park, the mosque, etc. I also enjoyed the people watching. I also went to a small souk, from what I remember, and bought a few scarves. A very Middle Eastern vibe indeed.
I love what you said re: realizing the similarities between people regardless of beliefs. I feel that way, too, when I visit places like Urfa…
How lucky to stay in such a lovely hotel, too!
Some great pictures from Urfa in here Natalia.
Definitely Angela and I still have some many more stories to come in the next few months
Should be on everyone’s list when they come to Turkey Step
I see it being advertised on FB Di but did not take any notice because not a great fan of Joanna Lumely. Will look for it again if you reckon it is a good program
It is a beautiful city Cheryl and one that should be more widely known and acknowledged.
Great photos. Looks like a wonderful spot to explore.
just watched a tv program called joanna lumley the search for noahs ark and its filmed where you are not far from urfa the storey of the great flood and noah and his animals going on the ark 2 by 2 is another storey shared muslins and christians i think you’d like it Natalie see if you can download it you could go and have a look next year
i love the old towns and like you i would have been gutted to see the high rise buildings im glad you found the old town fantastic pic’s once again
Such a beautiful town! glad to hear it redeemed itself for you. 🙂
That is the sad aspect about it all Jack – there is so much similarity between the teachings yet people fall out over the slightest little difference. This is why my attention span when it comes to religion is very limited!
I am not surprised that I was surprised Hobbit because I have never been that religious. I got kicked out of Sunday school and when it comes to reading the bible or Koran, my attention span is very short. Now visiting places connected with religion is a better way for me to learn
According to tradition, we are all children of Abraham (well, Jews, Christians and Muslims, that is). Yet, it seems to me that each re-invention of the same religion has caused no end of trouble.
Natalie, you wrote…
“I always knew that Islam and Christianity had a connection through the Virgin Mary but it was a surprise to learn that Abraham also connects two of the world’s most popular religions.”
I am surprised to hear that you were surprised. Islam is the “latest” of the 3 motheistic religions, Judiasm (very ancient), Christianity (2000 years ago), and Islam (1500 years ago). Almost all the major prophets of Islam are in both the Old and New Testament of the Bible and, of course, (loosely) the Torah.
Wikipedia says: “According to religious tradition, all of the teachings found in the Torah, both written and oral, were given by God to Moses, some of them at Mount Sinai and others at the Tabernacle, and all the teachings were written down by Moses, which resulted in the Torah we have today.”
Great photos, definitely the kind of places I like to visit. Turkey is so full of fantastic cities and natural landscape.
If you love historic places then you will like the south east. Some amazing monasteries and old churches are there. Plenty more articles to come so keep reading
I never knew that Abraham was from Urfa until I started researching things to do. Glad you like the photos. If I remember the name of the sister hotel, will let you know but most of the towns in the old part of the city are decorated like that
Let me know when you come Laura so that I can follow your articles
I should not have judged Urfa so quickly Jennifer but glad to know that I am not the only one who makes those mistakes
I tried a coffee that sounds like that Jennifer but it was in neighbouring Gaziantep instead. Very strong!!
Oh Joy, I wish you had stopped. It is a wonderful place for everyone whether they are religious or not. Hopefully next time
We loved Turkey, but have yet to make it that far east nor do we know much about that region. So, this was extremely helpful. I’d love to visit Urfa, it looks amazing, plus I’m a sucker for historic places.
PS-I want the name of the sister hotel! I am totally obsessed with Arab/Islamic architecture and decor, I would go there just to take pictures!
– Maria Alexandra
thanks for refreshing my Christian background 😉 I had forgotten where Abraham comes from. Now I know it’s Sanliurfa. Gorgeous photos, as always!
– Maria Alexandra
What a gorgeous place! I find myself more and more fascinated by the Arabic decor. So colorful, so alive. Love it! Turkey is so on my list!!
Urfa looks incredibly gorgeous. I love that picture of the door to your hotel!
I’ve judged places upon the their looks at my arrival before too and ended up loving the place by the time I left.
Did you try the local speciality coffee. Its a mix of coffee and ground pistacio nut. It tasted like hot chocolate. I dont know how to spell it properly but it sounded like komagen e. delicious. It was sold in the old bazzar.
This summer, we actually just drove through hot, dusty Urfa on our way to Gobeklitepe and Mt. Nemrut. I honestly hadn’t heard of much to do there until your post! Thanks for sharing. Much better to travel in the fall vs. summer too.