The Hard-Core, Street Crew of Herakleia

 

Don’t be fooled by the flowery trousers and cute smiles. Don’t assume that these five women are just plain, simple Turkish housewives. They rule the streets of Herakleia with iron fists and even the menfolk of the village run and shrink into the shadows of doorways when they pass.

I met the hard-core,  street crew yesterday when we were driving around the old village of Herakleia in Milas. Narrow, steep-winding roads lead us to accidentally drive into one of their backyards. As chickens scattered for safety, the posse appeared and proceed to bang heavily on the van.

High-pitched shouting started as soon as the driver wound down his window and I watched as this confident man began to sink lower and lower into his seat. At this point, I was not a worthy side-kick and jumped out of the van to walk off and find a shop selling refreshments.

It soon became apparent to me that I was being followed and all of a sudden was surrounded on all sides by the street crew of Turkish women.  I did not need an escort to the market but it looked like I was going to get one anyway.

Everything happened in a blur and without realizing it, we found ourselves herded down some green grass country paths. Quiet whispers between us revealed that no one actually knew where we were going and why we had personal escorts.  We were following like sheep to the slaughter and I did not have the guts to protest otherwise.

As the houses started disappearing into the distance behind me, I spotted their blanket back packs and it dawned on me that they were dealers. We were to complete an exchange which would be their time in return for buying their products.

women of herakleia

Fleeting thoughts passed through my mind of what they were dealing in. I hoped they had some homemade honey, from the dozens of bee-hives that I had spotted while walking around. I cringed at the thought that I would be forced to buy a pair of flowery pants that seemed to be the common gang uniform.

After a long tour of village houses, ancient ruins, tombs and recommended photo shots, the exchange of goods took place in a green open field and almost as quick as it had started, it finished.  The four women, from which I had bought nothing, suddenly disappeared and one of them called Durdu stayed. I asked her why they had gone as I did quite enjoy the experience of having five personal guides. She said they were going back to watch for any more tourists pulling up.

You had to admire this street crew as they have the working day organized down to a tee and their home ground is sewn up lock, stock and barrel. The Herakleia women know the streets like the back of their hands and it is obvious that Herakleia is and always will be their turf.

herakleia

What to do if you spot the Herakleia Street Crew.

1 – If you are a tourist who wants an official guide and you want your day planned out from A to Z, then avoid the street crew at all costs. Your tour will be an average one but at least you can say that you have been there and done it.

2 – If you are quite happy to go with the flow and are prepared to exchange some money in return for local time and knowledge, then follow the street crew. They do provide a presence that makes a big difference to the day and by the end of it, you will end up loving their quirky characters and determination.

The Herakleia Street Crew


The Crew And Gang Members

turkish women

The Docile One  – OKA The Lookout

turkish village life

The Vicious One  – OKA The Bodyguard

village life in turkey

About Natalie  (176 Posts)

Hi. My name is Natalie and I am the author of The Turkish Travel Blog. You can follow me on Facebook. Got something to add? Let me know what you think by filling in the comments box below. If you want to be notified of when I publish new posts, subscribe to my newsletter. Till the next time...happy travels.


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28 Comments

 
  1. Ohhh, that looks like it was fun! Never a dull moment is there?! Love the photos. :)
    Julia

    • Natalie says:

      Well it was good fun however the hassle was strong. You would of thought that after ten years in Turkey, I would of seen that coming but they fooled me with their flowery pants and cute smilies!

  2. Ayak says:

    I love it Natalie! They are much like the women in our village! And those photos look very much like our village too.

  3. phil + Di marina gateway says:

    they do look funny in there flowery trousers but i bet they are scary aswell we like to go our own way when we go somewhere new do they let you or do they follow you eveywhere

    i dont like that i like to be left alone to do what i want at my own pace if i want to buy something i will ask for it

    when we went to Baffa lake a load of women just like them turned up and we watched our guide turn from a young man with plenty to say to a small boy with his head down looking at the floor

    one of our group bought a table cloth and that was our que to leg it up the hill

    sitting here reading all about it it’s funny but the hassle can spoil your holiday

  4. Jan says:

    He He sounds like you had a giggle. I’ve always wondered about the flowery trousers not sure I’ve ever seen them in any shop! – I call them “sound of music trousers”.

  5. Natalie says:

    @Ayak – I would love to visit your village one day but only if your neighbours are not as scary as them!!

    @Jan – I have seen the trousers being sold on market stalls but I think the housewives also make them at home. Sound of music is a good name for them!

    @Phil and Di – I could imagine other people to get quite angry with their forceful nature. If you wanted to walk round on your own, you would have to be very forceful back in saying no. My friend felt intimidated and at one stage, one of the women got on my nerves when I had to repeat myself about three times that I was not buying goods off her, only the other woman.

    I loved the experience because once I realised what was happening, I was able to push the boundaries. I started asking for more photographs and also started asking questions about their personal life. Durdu invited us to her house for coffee and I was able to look more into her personality and how she lives. I asked her twice “where is your husband?” and that question was ignored and that is when I decided to back off. But I had feel that had I not walked round with them, then I would of ended up with nice photos but an average experience.

  6. Audrey says:

    I’m still laughing after reading this post. If I see a picture of you with the flowery pants I will know they have recruited you. I wonder if they have a secret gang sign?

  7. Ed says:

    At one point, I really thought that this was going to end up dark. Glad to know they’re actually nice! :D

  8. Natalie says:

    @Audery – I can promise that you will never see me in a pair of those flowery trousers!

    @Ed – Yes, they were nice once you got to know them better.

  9. Karen says:

    What a great post! I’m grinning.

  10. Christine says:

    Just love your blog Natalie your photos and posts are great they brighten up my day….. had to read this one again it was that funny and the flowery trousers are a must have. ha ha

  11. trevor says:

    think you would look greate in a pair of those flowery trousers!
    jean and i would like to say high to all

  12. Haha! Fun post Natalie! Love the rooster as the body guard! You know he’ll make you deaf with his crowing before he lets you get anywhere near them! :-P

  13. Natalie says:

    @karen – Thanks Karen. I can grin about the day now but I was not at the beginning!

    @Trevor – I can promise that you will never see me in a pair of those trousers!LOl Look forward to seeing you in the summer

    @Aaron – That rooster looked vicious Aaron and he had his own little posse as well. Scared the s*** out of me!

  14. Jason says:

    Great story and photos to go with it. The beginning of the story sounded a bit dicey, but you survived…and it looks like you made some friends as well.
    Jason

  15. Emily says:

    This is a hilarious post as I have been there and have been stalked by “the crew” many a time! I am always curious about their handcrafts they have made and make the mistake of showing a tiny bit of interest and suddenly you are bombarded with teyzeler in your face:) As you wrote just part of the experience! Have to go there with a good mind set and I love eating the koy kahvalti!! take care!
    Emily recently wrote about..See through…

  16. Natalie says:

    Hi Emily, Thanks for your comment. It was a good day out. What happened to your blog? Why did you change?
    Natalie recently wrote about..Bogazici and My Quest To Find It

  17. Andrea says:

    Haha – they’re real hustlers, eh? Great story! =)
    Andrea recently wrote about..Çay and Conversation: Discovering Turkish Tea

  18. Kristina says:

    Oh my gosh, I love this!!! Totally hilarious and well-written; I feel like I’ve seen this crew stomping ’round the streets of Yalova – I wonder, do they travel? ;) What a great experience. Thanks for sharing, hahaha.
    Kristina recently wrote about..Spiritual Cattle Massacre? Happy Kurban Bayram!

  19. cheryl says:

    Ha ha! Looks like this gang gave you a great tour. Love this story … I’d want them to be my tour guides as well. Although I could live without the pants. ;)
    cheryl recently wrote about..Street Art in Amsterdam.

  20. wow..what an interesting post. I might have to try one if I happen to be there!
    Amer @TendToTravel recently wrote about..Back in the Day – Why I love culture shock and wanted it all over again

  21. Dayna says:

    I think I could handle most (some) of the gang members… but the Vicious One would definitely intimidate me and possibly scare me away. What a great experience!
    Dayna recently wrote about..A Very Romanian Christmas

  22. Ryan says:

    This must be the Turkish arm of the HGP (Hardcore Granny Posse), we have this gang in Scotland – my granny is one of the top dogs. The only difference being that the baggy pants aren’t flowery but tartan plaid.

  23. Rich says:

    Wow I can’t imagine being in a situation like that!

    Great read
    Rich recently wrote about..My A-Z of Traveling

  24. Kerry Arslan says:

    Wonderful article, and well done to the women cashing in on the tourists. But a bit scary if you don’t have much Turkish!

    Sound’s the sort of story you will be telling for a long time to come.

 

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