Pamukkale in Turkey is a top-visited attraction and a sight to wow at. Pamukkale, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the Denizli region, is nicknamed “Cotton Castle” because of solidified white calcium thermal pools cascading down a hill’s side. Sitting inland within an agricultural province, on my first visit to Pamukkale and Hierapolis ancient city, the significance of the natural phenomenon didn’t sink in, and over the years, my memories became hazy, so I returned.
About Pamukkale in Turkey
Most tourists travel to the Pamukkale site on day trips from surrounding holiday resorts like Fethiye, Marmaris and Bodrum. Others pass through for the night on their way to other places. I chose the latter to break up a long bus trip from Cappadocia. After getting a connecting shuttle bus from Denizli, I booked into a modern hotel on the outskirts since the closer the hotel is to the thermal pools, the more expensive it is.
Walking around is an exciting and comical insight into a community desperate to profit from everyone passing through. Tradition shines through with local women wearing village clothing, herds of roosters roaming the streets, and rusty farmyard equipment sitting in backyards. Every so often, an old Cortina car whizzed by, followed by the latest model of Ford or Opal. This reflects Turkey’s ad-hoc tendency to combine the modern with the old.
Larger-than-life and brash ticket touts selling guided tours from the town entrance and paragliding experiences also stood near a popular Asian restaurant. Had it been my first time in Turkey, the overwhelming hard-core sales pattern would have been easy to fall for. Despite the mishmash of old and new and overbearing ticket touts, Pamukkale village is charming, and as a single female, I felt safe and stayed overnight to explore more.
Things to do at Pamukkale and Hierapolis
- Explore Hierapolis Ancient Ruins site
- Paddle in Mineral Travertine Pools
- Swim in Cleopatra’s Pool with carbonate minerals
- Visit Pamukkale Museum
- Hot air balloon ride
- (Most visitors recommend the south entrance gate.)
Ancient Hierapolis City Ruins
Looking at the map, I couldn’t walk everywhere in Hierapolis, whose origins date from the 2nd century BC. The name, meaning “sacred city,” reflected the sprawling masses of temples, but most ruins date from the Roman period and spread over a large area. But the large theatre was the only structure I wanted to see, which meant a strenuous hike up a small hill. Walking around in the mid-day heat often has that effect.
I walked in via the back entrance and, from there, sat on the top step for roughly 20 minutes. A barrier blocked off the impressive front façade, but behind, the stunning landscape view spread far into the distance. Truthfully, this ancient theatre is better than the larger one seen in Ephesus, but many would disagree with me. Other structures from the Hierapolis include the Byzantine gates, Necropolis, and Apollo temple, but the highlight is the Pamukkale thermal pools.
Pamukkale Hot Springs and Thermal Pools
Everything seemed vastly different from 13 years earlier, but something else caught my eye even more. There were more dried-up travertines on the terrace than water-filled ones. Three sections spread out on the landscape in front of me. The open middle one, packed with bathers swimming and paddling in milky white water that averaged 33 degrees, had rusty-brown rocks leading to the pools. Every so often, the Turkish security guard blew their whistle when someone forgot to take their shoes off.
Someone else asked security about the dried-up travertine terraces, and they replied they were closed for cleaning. Somehow, that didn’t sit right with me. This natural landmark, made from calcium carbonate deposits, has existed for thousands of years. Romans used the calcite-laden waters as spring spa centres because the water originated from hot springs. When did Mother Nature need our help to preserve the earth and natural pools unless we had damaged them in the first place?
Rumours about the demise of the mineral-rich waters have existed for years. Turkish hotels backing the terrace pools polluted them at one point, but they have since shut down. At another period, bathing in the water was forbidden. Pamukkale and Hierapolis receive millions of visitors annually who pay for entrance tickets, museum tickets, and to enter Cleopatra’s pool. Add to this the revenues generated by souvenir shops and on-site restaurants, and that is a lot of money passing through.
In my eyes, the Turkish security guard said, “Thousands of tourists every day disrupt the ecological balance, but we generate so much income, we need to keep it open.” While the white terraces might not disintegrate during our lifetime, will future generations see this marvel of Turkey?
Cleopatra’s Thermal Pool for an Extra Cost
After seeing white Pamukkale, I headed to Cleopatra’s pool for the restaurants and toilet. This is also where people swim in the thermal springs, which have therapeutic properties. An entrance sign boasting of the thermal water’s healing qualities said the warm water has healing properties for teenage acne, high blood pressure and varicose veins. The cynic in me wondered if this gimmick justified the high cost of ticket prices for swimming in the main travertine pool, which at the bottom contains fallen columns from the tremendous Roman ancient city of Hierapolis.
Regardless, I didn’t pay the high prices. There is also something seriously wrong with Cleopatra’s antique pool, boasting about the super-healing water of an outdoor pool covering ancient ruins, playing the f***** Macarena dance song from 2011 at loud volume. The ambience of the blue water was ruined! Despite being one of Turkey’s most beautiful landmarks, this top attraction, has firmly been stamped, caged, and boxed by the seal of tourism. Tutting loudly, I left the hot water pool and headed to the onsite museum.
Pamukkale and Hierapolis Archaeology Museum
Situated in 3 rooms and within the gardens, the Pamukkale Museum displays artefacts from Hierapoli’s ancient ruins and other excavated major cities like Laodicea and Aphrodisias. The best was the sarcophagus room. Unfortunately, only four other people and I were touring the museum, whereas Cleopatra’s sacred pool was packed. But not everyone enjoys history and ancient times. (Please note there is an additional entrance fee here.)
Despite being a popular tourist destination, Pamukkale and the well-preserved ruins of Hierapolis are a must-visit. At the same time, they are a natural and stunning landmark in Turkey. People also take hot-air balloon trips during sunrise or paraglide over Pamukkale travertines at any time during the day. Rather than just passing through for the day, though, stay overnight to appreciate it much more.
Note: From Cappadocia, there was no direct public transportation to Pamukkale town in Turkey. I got a bus ride to Denizli, a significant town, and then caught the connecting transfer, a shuttle bus. Additionally, after that, many people visit Ephesus, an old Greek city, and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The closest airport is Denizli Cardak Airport, with no international and limited domestic flights.
Historical Sites of Ancient Civilization Nearby
Aphrodisias in Turkey: After visiting this natural wonder with my guide, I arrived at Aphrodisias in Turkey, the city of sculptures, creativity, ancient ruins, and how the ruins dominated one man’s life nearly 500 years after the town fell into oblivion. Sitting near current-day Aydin city, in the Aegean, Turkey, Aphrodisias centred itself around the goddess Aphrodite, who represented love.
Laodicea: Laodicea sits a ten-minute drive from Pamukkale Natural Park, giving you plenty of time to explore. Most tour agents will take you there for an additional cost. The city was one of the Seven Churches of Revelation mentioned in the New Testament. In its prime, Laodicea was an extremely profitable trade centre and pristine landscape that did exceptionally well in wool because nearby plains provided sheep with ample grazing food.