At first glance, Kalkan on the Mediterranean coast of Turkey resembles a carbon copy of its neighbouring town called Kas. Both are seaside holiday resorts that are visited by thousands of holiday makers every year. Both towns have white washed houses covered with bougainvillea flowers that spill down the steep hillside to reach the traditional fishing boats that crowd the coastline. The history of Kalkan and Kas is also the same as both were previously occupied by Greeks until the citizen exchange in 1923.
However from the moment I arrived in the town as a solo traveller, I sensed there was something different and it captured my attention. It just took me some time to figure out what that was…
Exploring Kalkan on the Med coast of Turkey
Even though I was feeling lonely and a little bit sad, I wanted to discover the reason why I was so intrigued by Kalkan and set off to find it. I looked around my boutique hotel which was adorned with traditional handicrafts and paintings of Turkey. I also explored the hilly, cobbled streets that put the lungs of a hardened smoker through their paces.
The locals and holiday makers were going about their daily business and totally unaware that I was watching them. “People-watching” is the favored term and I am a great participant in this daily activity as it gives me an insight into the vibes and character of any destination that I choose to spend my time in.
While I was people-watching, I remembered conversations from the past in which friends and locals in other holiday resorts of Turkey told me that Kalkan was full of rich snobs. Well, it is not your typical bucket and spade holiday destination but neither did I feel that it is a town that only entertains those who sail in on a six foot yacht and with letters after their surname.
The Art House of Kalkan
I was soon to discover what that niggling feeling was. Kalkan is in a bay inlet and the fast, furious wind on that day, gave way to a heavy downpour that forced me take cover in the nearest shop. My eyes were instantly attracted to the white washed walls covered with beautiful artwork.
Paintings of landscapes, people, objects and abstract images surrounded me on all sides of the small room
The paintings were wordless expressions. They were creative and each one demanded attention in their own unique way.
It turned out I had wondered into the Kalkan Culture House and my expression of admiration for the paintings prompted the owner to shut shop and lead me to another gallery with timber balconies and the popular bougainvillea flowers.
The gallery in this old house covered three floors filled to the rafters with art work in all manners and forms.
The owner showed me around and once I had seen the variety of artwork on show, I finally figured out what that niggling feeling was.
The town has a hidden vibe of inspiration.
It felt like a core of energy to tap into which I desperately needed as I had succumbed to the doldrums of traveling solo in Turkey and needed motivation to get back on track. Seeing the creative work that other people had perfected with their own hands, in a way made me jealous. I could never create a painting that made people go wow, but I do have my own passions in life that I want to be successful at.
Somewhere in Turkey, there are artists that don’t know the inspiration that their work gave me. If an artist can put their nerves to the side to display their work to the public, I could damn well complete a measly 500km tour on my own.
I made a promise to myself on that day. To match that creativity and to pursue my goals and hobbies in life, not to be distracted by normal everyday conflicts in my own head.
I got over the disappointment that the only people in my photos are strangers. No friends, no family and not even myself. The plus side was that the 2500 photos that I captured on the tour helps me to improve my hobby of photography.
I got over the stares and whispers because I was sitting in a restaurant on my own. The plus side was that conversations were started more easily than if I had been traveling with someone else. I meet some wonderful people during that month that were a pleasure to be around.
I got over the fact that I missed the night-life of a majority of destinations because I was too scared to go out on my own. Inside I would sit in the hotel bar. The plus side was that the hotel staff would tell me their local knowledge and give me tips that never appear in any guide book.
There is never going to be a situation in life that is all roses. Negative thoughts will always rear their ugly head and it is how I deal with it, that makes a difference.
Upon leaving Kalkan to head to Patara, I reflected on the time I spent there. I cannot knock the town for its posh restaurants and upmarket clientele. As one restaurant owner put it, we get a more selective kind of holiday maker here. He just speaks the truth.
Property prices are not cheap for anyone looking for a second home in Turkey and this keeps Kalkan small and elite. Considering this fact, it makes it the ideal place for the galleries as the price of the artwork is not something I could hand over in the blink of an eye.
I did not take away with me a creative piece of art however I did take a renewed strength of energy and inspiration that put me back on track.
Have you ever been to a destination that renewed your energy for life?
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Hi Claire, thanks for reading. Sure you will discover a lot of enjoyable things in both Kas and Kalkan. If you have a look to the left hand side, there is an advert for Spot Blue. The man who runs it is called Julian and he can give you a great insight.
Hi Natalie
I’ve just discovered your blog via a friend…….I love the pics and your posts about Kalkan. Have just read your post about Turkish Men and the holiday romance…….very funny and very true! I was married to a Turkish man for 10 years – met him in NZ and have two fab kids. The cultural gap is a major issue down the track!
I’m traveling to Kalkan in July to discover what Kalkan and Kas offer………. Specifically looking at the property market in both towns to eventually spend the summer months each year on the coast. Do you have any insights on the property market on the coast?
Regards
Claire
There is not much to see in there Julia but the paintings are fantastic
Could I travel solo? Not sure. I always think I’m not good in my own company. I think I could while away a few days in Kalkan quite easily though. We’ve never been the culture house so will hunt that down next time we’re there.
Julia
Thanks Stephanie. It is beautiful and definitely had an impact at a much needed time
Seems like a beautiful town, and you’ve done a great job describing the feeling you have there.
Hi Johanna, It did not take a lot of nerves but at one stage the solo aspect began to take over and shape the holiday. had to shake out of that. I think it would definitely have changed in twenty years. Would be interesting to find some old photographs so that I could compare
it is lovely Amanda, just a bit of a killer when it comes to steep hills
Hi John, I just had a read of your comic and part 4 of the vacation. That is so cool. I should imagine you need to pay a lot of attention to detail. The Obama character is wonderful
Phil and Di – It is definitely culture. Something that a few other resorts are missing! You know which one I mean
Bougainvillea is so beautiful Deej. Not that I have ever seen it in the Florida keys but there is plenty in Turkey
If you need a quiet place to write your second book Jack – Kalkan will be perfect
Clare – I can see the attraction that you have for Kalkan and totally understand it. A moped is essential for those hills though!
It must take nerve to do this on your own. I’m full of admiration. I’m not bad at chatting to strangers but my directional sense is pretty haphazard.
I did love Kalkan though, 20 years ago when I visited on a gulet cruise. Sure it will have changed hugely but wouldn’t mind another look. So lucky to be taken to that fabulous home!
It looks lovely!!
hi Natalie, I’m something of a solo traveler myself so I know how it goes.
I’m glad you got the photos you did and wrote this up. Turkey was never somewhere I considered going to but now I can add it to my list of places to see!
lovely Natalie a different side to the holiday maker Turkey somewhere to go for a lazy afternoon and a glass of wine
a bit of culture insted of loud music and dancing boys
Great story…glad you found your “second wind.” I find bougainvilla trees to be so beautiful…one of the great things about vising the Florida Keys. Guess its just another reason to visit Turkey:)
Kalkan is lovely with a laid-back civilised vibe. Kalkan and Kas were my first experience of Turkey and remain my favourate places to visit.
I’m glad you found something good to take away with you from Kalkan. I’ve never been able to pin down why I’m so drawn back to the place, but perhaps it’s a similar feeling! Lovely, unexpected things happened to me when I was there, revealing a warmth and beauty amongst the people I met – locals and holiday makers. I had a nice time anyway in that pretty resort, but certain people made it special and unlike any other holidays I’ve had.
Thanks for writing this Natalie. Maybe I know now why I want to go back!
I am determined to make it to your neck of the woods one day Alan. thanks for giving me loads more traveling information
Good stuff again Natalie! Kalkan was where we spent our first ever holiday in Turkey, way back in the mists of time. It was here that the dream of eventually living here first took root. Thanks for stirring up lots of great memories – although the town, like much else has changed out of all recognition.
Hi Amit, Thank you. Always a pleasure to hear that you like my photos.
Hi Mohamed. I am assuming you are talking long term for an apartment however I have never rented one in Istanbul so can not recommend any sites. Perhaps you can find one by submitting your quesiton to this site http://wizardistanbul.com/
You are right. Turkish people do speak English well. My Turkish is getting there slowly but surely though
Always a pleasure to get your amazing pics. Such a great way to discover world with your photos. Amazing work as always. Keep Rocking ((Hugs))
wonderful natalie …very nice tour
i dont know really if u r a turkish or not so u can do all of such tours alone
also i need ur help as i want to come to istanbul soon so do you know a place i can rent a small studio aparment in a reasonable price or a lawer one 🙂 also the turkish people speaks english well or not and is it easy to speak turkesh if take small courses thanks great traveller