Herakleia and The Hard-Core, Street Crew of Turkey

Don’t be fooled by the flowery trousers and cute smiles. Don’t assume that these five women are just plain, simple Turkish housewives. They rule the streets with iron fists and even the menfolk of the village run and shrink into the shadows of doorways when they pass.

I met the hard-core, street crew yesterday when we were driving around the old village of Herakleia in Milas in the Aegean region of Turkey. Narrow, steep-winding roads lead us to accidentally drive into one of their backyards. As chickens scattered for safety, the posse appeared and proceed to bang heavily on the van.

Locals of Herakleia, Turkey

High-pitched shouting started as soon as the driver wound down his window and I watched as this confident man began to sink lower and lower into his seat. At this point, I was not a worthy side-kick and jumped out of the van to walk off and find a shop selling refreshments.

It soon became apparent to me that I was being followed and all of a sudden was surrounded on all sides by the street crew of Turkish women. I did not need an escort to the market but it looked like I was going to get one anyway.

Everything happened in a blur and without realizing it, we found ourselves herded down some green grass country paths. Quiet whispers between us revealed that no one actually knew where we were going and why we had personal escorts. We were following like sheep to the slaughter and I did not have the guts to protest otherwise.

As the houses started disappearing into the distance behind me, I spotted their blanket back packs and it dawned on me that they were dealers. We were to complete an exchange which would be their time in return for buying their products.

Fleeting thoughts passed through my mind of what they were dealing in. I hoped they had some homemade honey, from the dozens of bee-hives that I had spotted while walking around. I cringed at the thought that I would be forced to buy a pair of flowery pants that seemed to be the common gang uniform.

The Tour of Herakleia Finishes

After a long tour of village houses, ancient ruins, tombs and recommended photo shots, the exchange of goods took place in a green open field and almost as quick as it had started, it finished. The four women, from which I had bought nothing, suddenly disappeared and one of them called Durdu stayed. I asked her why they had gone as I did quite enjoy the experience of having five personal guides. She said they were going back to watch for any more tourists pulling up.

You had to admire this street crew as they have the working day organized down to a tee and their home ground is sewn up lock, stock and barrel. The Herakleia women know the streets like the back of their hands and it is obvious that Herakleia is and always will be their turf.

What to do if you spot the Herakleia Street Crew

If you are a tourist who wants an official guide and you want your day planned out from A to Z, then avoid the street crew at all costs. Your tour will be an average one but at least you can say that you have been there and done it.

If you are quite happy to go with the flow and are prepared to exchange some money in return for local time and knowledge, then follow the street crew. They do provide a presence that makes a big difference to the day and by the end of it, you will end up loving their quirky characters and determination.

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Hi. I'm Natalie, a freelance travel blogger and writer specializing in the country of Turkey. I love hot summer days, historical sites and coffee.

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Comments

Natalie says
at

no – I do not and will never own a pair of those pants. Ha ha Glad you liked the post
Christy @ Technosyncratic says
at

Ha, this post made me snort a little! =P I love the inclusion of The Lookout and The Bodyguard — and I really love those flower pants! Please tell me you have at least one pair.
Natalie says
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Definitely not your average guides Elise but they were quite fun.
Elise Walsh says
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Haha, I love how you just went with the flow. I would enjoy this, but I would definitely need to know Turkish prior- these are not your average travel guides.
Natalie says
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Glad you liked it Arthur. They were colourful characters and charming at the same time.
Artur says
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Great post! I’ve laughed louder and louder going on reading your posts and watching your shots! I love their flowered pants…so stilish!! Knowing people like these women is one of the aspect I like most of travelling!
Nat says
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You are right Arti – Definitely remember Herakleia more because of those women
Arti says
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Very interesting indeed! But these are the stories that we bring from our travels which help us remember the place long long afterwards.
Rich says
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Haha wouldn’t want to run into that body guard.
Natalie says
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Great photos Bahattin – I am surprised the ladies do not get fed up doing the same thing, day in and day out. Thanks for adding the pictures
Bahattin Turkoglu says
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Here are the photos Trish Turkoglu was talking about : http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157629542047893/
Natalie says
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Trish. if your Turkish husband can not get out of it then I do not think anyone could! LOl. Would love to see your photos if you have a link
trish turkoglu says
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Natalie, we feel your pain. We were nabbed last summer, despite my husband being Turkish. He tried his best to explain that we didn’t need 6 guides to no avail. i was a bit concerned when i saw my daughter being taken to the top of a rock to admire the view. Those women are like little mountain goats! We left without buying anything, , whereas if they had backed off a bit we would have bought something just to be nice! Bahattin will try and post our pictures for you.
trish turkoglu says
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This did make us laugh Natalie.We has the same experience when we visited this summer. They were not deterred by the fact my husband is Turkish and tried to explain that the more they hassled the less likely we were to buy anything. Our youngest daughter was whisked off and encouraged to climb to the top of a rock “to see the view”. She was then promptly decked with scarves , beads and so on which we could have bought for 1 lira in any market. Meanwhile the pressure was on for me to but a table cloth that I didn’t want or need. Eventually we ran away!!! meaning we didn’t get a proper look around Herakleia after all. We have some photos which I think Bahattin will post for you. I recognise at least one of the culprits, my youngest swears she is permanently traumatised
Anthony @ Culture-ist Mag says
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Great read! We visited Turkey last summer and fell in love with it’s people. We’d love to go back sometime soon and check out this region. I’m particularly excited about the opportunity to meet OKA The Bodyguard!
rashmi says
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The gang sounds to be quite determined. Great photos and interesting article!
Kerry Arslan says
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Wonderful article, and well done to the women cashing in on the tourists. But a bit scary if you don’t have much Turkish!

Sound’s the sort of story you will be telling for a long time to come.
Rich says
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Wow I can’t imagine being in a situation like that!

Great read
Natalie says
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I like that term Ryan. The HGP. Perfect way to describe the Turkish branch of this international organization! Love the site btw
Ryan says
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This must be the Turkish arm of the HGP (Hardcore Granny Posse), we have this gang in Scotland – my granny is one of the top dogs. The only difference being that the baggy pants aren’t flowery but tartan plaid.
Dayna says
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I think I could handle most (some) of the gang members… but the Vicious One would definitely intimidate me and possibly scare me away. What a great experience!
Amer @TendToTravel says
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wow..what an interesting post. I might have to try one if I happen to be there!
Natalie says
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Yes Cheryl – Biggest fashion mistake known to man is those trousers! 🙂
cheryl says
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Ha ha! Looks like this gang gave you a great tour. Love this story … I’d want them to be my tour guides as well. Although I could live without the pants. 😉
Natalie says
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Thanks Kristina, After meeting these and other Turkish women, I am firmly under the belief that women rule the country of Turkey and not men!
Kristina says
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Oh my gosh, I love this!!! Totally hilarious and well-written; I feel like I’ve seen this crew stomping ’round the streets of Yalova – I wonder, do they travel? 😉 What a great experience. Thanks for sharing, hahaha.
Andrea says
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Haha – they’re real hustlers, eh? Great story! =)
Natalie says
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Hi Emily, Thanks for your comment. It was a good day out. What happened to your blog? Why did you change?
Emily says
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This is a hilarious post as I have been there and have been stalked by “the crew” many a time! I am always curious about their handcrafts they have made and make the mistake of showing a tiny bit of interest and suddenly you are bombarded with teyzeler in your face:) As you wrote just part of the experience! Have to go there with a good mind set and I love eating the koy kahvalti!! take care!
Jason says
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Great story and photos to go with it. The beginning of the story sounded a bit dicey, but you survived…and it looks like you made some friends as well.
Jason
Natalie says
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@karen – Thanks Karen. I can grin about the day now but I was not at the beginning!

@Trevor – I can promise that you will never see me in a pair of those trousers!LOl Look forward to seeing you in the summer

@Aaron – That rooster looked vicious Aaron and he had his own little posse as well. Scared the s*** out of me!
Aaron @ Aaron's Worldwide Adventures says
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Haha! Fun post Natalie! Love the rooster as the body guard! You know he’ll make you deaf with his crowing before he lets you get anywhere near them! 😛
trevor says
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think you would look greate in a pair of those flowery trousers!
jean and i would like to say high to all
Christine says
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Just love your blog Natalie your photos and posts are great they brighten up my day….. had to read this one again it was that funny and the flowery trousers are a must have. ha ha
Karen says
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What a great post! I’m grinning.
Natalie says
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@Audery – I can promise that you will never see me in a pair of those flowery trousers!

@Ed – Yes, they were nice once you got to know them better.
Ed says
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At one point, I really thought that this was going to end up dark. Glad to know they’re actually nice! 😀
Audrey says
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I’m still laughing after reading this post. If I see a picture of you with the flowery pants I will know they have recruited you. I wonder if they have a secret gang sign?
Natalie says
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@Ayak – I would love to visit your village one day but only if your neighbours are not as scary as them!!

@Jan – I have seen the trousers being sold on market stalls but I think the housewives also make them at home. Sound of music is a good name for them!

@Phil and Di – I could imagine other people to get quite angry with their forceful nature. If you wanted to walk round on your own, you would have to be very forceful back in saying no. My friend felt intimidated and at one stage, one of the women got on my nerves when I had to repeat myself about three times that I was not buying goods off her, only the other woman.

I loved the experience because once I realised what was happening, I was able to push the boundaries. I started asking for more photographs and also started asking questions about their personal life. Durdu invited us to her house for coffee and I was able to look more into her personality and how she lives. I asked her twice “where is your husband?” and that question was ignored and that is when I decided to back off. But I had feel that had I not walked round with them, then I would of ended up with nice photos but an average experience.
Jan says
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He He sounds like you had a giggle. I’ve always wondered about the flowery trousers not sure I’ve ever seen them in any shop! – I call them “sound of music trousers”.
phil + Di marina gateway says
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they do look funny in there flowery trousers but i bet they are scary aswell we like to go our own way when we go somewhere new do they let you or do they follow you eveywhere

i dont like that i like to be left alone to do what i want at my own pace if i want to buy something i will ask for it

when we went to Baffa lake a load of women just like them turned up and we watched our guide turn from a young man with plenty to say to a small boy with his head down looking at the floor

one of our group bought a table cloth and that was our que to leg it up the hill

sitting here reading all about it it’s funny but the hassle can spoil your holiday
Ayak says
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I love it Natalie! They are much like the women in our village! And those photos look very much like our village too.
Natalie says
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Well it was good fun however the hassle was strong. You would of thought that after ten years in Turkey, I would of seen that coming but they fooled me with their flowery pants and cute smilies!
Turkey's For Life says
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Ohhh, that looks like it was fun! Never a dull moment is there?! Love the photos. 🙂
Julia