Sanliurfa boasts of many highly recommended attractions for visitors to the region. Nicknamed the “City of the Prophets,” most fit in with the historical travel genre, and the ancient Gumruk Hani was at the top of my bucket list. Built in 1566, it was the main commercial centre. Tradesman met there to trade goods and if they were tired from traveling, used the bedrooms before continuing on their journey. Due to its importance as a business hub, … [Read more...]
East of Turkey
The east of Turkey is vastly different to the rest of the country, with a unique lifestyle influenced by Kurdish and Arabic cultures. The region is not as exposed to western influences like most of the holiday resorts on the West and South coasts. Visiting Gaziantep, Mardin, Sanliurfa and Kars, I saw the main historical sites, met the locals and delved into the regional cuisine. I have heart warming memories of my time in that area of the country and one day, hope to return.
Gobekli Tepe: The Ancient Religious Temple that Threw the History World into Chaos
Turkey covers an enormous amount of land, 783,562 km² to be exact. Many empires throughout history have existed within the boundaries, so obviously, thousands of historical sites have been uncovered and it seems every month; a new and exciting discovery sends international and domestic history experts into a joyful frenzy. As the central hub between East and West, Turkey is a playground for historians and a treasure trove for archaeologists. It … [Read more...]
Abraham’s cave in Sanliurfa and the Mevlid-I Halil Mosque
Coming from a Christian background, but living in a Muslim country, has enabled me to learn of many similarities between the two religions. One such example is the prophet Ibrahim, known in the Bible as Abraham. He was born in Mesopotamia, in an area called Edessa that is current day Sanliurfa, although the Bible lists the same region as “Ur.” He is mentioned frequently in the book of Islam, but very few online guidebooks, recommend visiting … [Read more...]
Midyat Old City : Churches and Culture in the Mardin Region
It was an hour’s drive from Mardin to Midyat old city. I had wanted to stay the night but my travelling companion didn't. He insisted there was nothing to do there, having driven through it three years earlier. He compared it with Mardin where Arabic architecture and narrow streets are the norm.He also called me a nosy bitch when I explained to him that my planned visit was more about the people that lived there. You see, a few days before, I … [Read more...]
Sanliurfa (Urfa) : The City of Abraham in Turkey
We drove into Sanliurfa on a small and crowded public bus. Every seat was occupied and people were squashed together while standing in the aisle. Everyone was chatting, staring straight ahead or at this foreigner sitting in their presence. I ignored the stares because I could not make any more of an effort to blend in. I stood out and had to accept it. Instead, I focused on the sights that whizzed past as the bus followed its scheduled route and … [Read more...]
People Watching In Sanliurfa (Urfa) : Purple Headscarf and Regional Dress Codes
I love people watching. Sitting in the airport or a restaurant and watching everyone is my favourite hobby. I cannot remember though, ever being more fascinated by people then when I was in Sanliurfa in Southeastern Turkey. What intrigued me most was the local dress. Living in the West of Turkey, I can see that any regional and traditional dress seems to have been replaced by the brand name of Levi. Even if I look at the women covering … [Read more...]
19 Photos of Southeastern Turkey
In 2012, I started to regret my decision to focus on one country for my travel writing. The buzz of learning about new aspects of Turkey had started to wear off. New experiences were harder to find because after ten years as an expat in Turkey, I was used to daily life. I had based myself on the west coast and apart from the landscapes; it was guaranteed that each area was more or less the same. The only thing to do was to start exploring … [Read more...]
Traditional Food in Southeast Turkey
I do not normally focus on food while traveling. I have a love / hate relationship with it and mostly eat more out of necessity rather than desire. My visit to Gaziantep, Mardin and Urfa changed that though. When comparing the region to the west, I recognized a huge difference in culture, traditions, and even languages spoken daily in the street. I figured that with all these differences, eating traditional food in Southeast Turkey had to be … [Read more...]
The Shoe Maker from Gaziantep
Tucked away within the walls of a stone courtyard was a small and dusty workshop. I squinted my eyes as I peered through the age old stained windows, unsure whether the shop was open.An old man opened the door and smiled. His wrinkled face and stooped demeanour portrayed his old age. I was amazed he was still working at his time of life but he told me, his job was not work but instead a passion. He was an expert at making Gaziantep shoes.As … [Read more...]
Church of the Redeemer at Ani City
The church of the Redeemer ( Kurtarici kilisesi ) was one of the first churches that I came across when walking around Ani, an ancient Armenian kingdom that has now been added to the UNESCO World Heritage site list. The crumbling church stands near the foundations of an old house. The most prominent feature of the church is its destruction, which happened during a storm in 1957 and an earthquake in 1988. Today the structure is at strong risk of … [Read more...]
The Cathedral of Ani aka the Fethiye Mosque
Many historians consider the Holy Virgin Cathedral of Ani to be the biggest and most impressive historic building in the region.Built in 1001AD and converted into a mosque in 1071, it has seen much controversy in recent years despite its dormant state. Controversy number one was the decision by the famous fashion magazine Elle to base a photo shot in the cathedral. Public opinion was split in two as fashion lovers declared they loved the article … [Read more...]
The Tigran Honents Church of Ani
On the border with Turkey and Armenian, a ruined ancient city holds some stunning landmark structures of which one is the Tigran Honents church. Dating from 1215, it took its name from the wealthy Armenian merchant that ordered and paid for its construction. Upon first sight, its small size dumbed down the intricate architecture but on closer inspection, the extreme detail on the outside of the church won my admiration. Ornate animal carvings … [Read more...]
The Ruins of Ani – The City of 1001 Churches
The ruins of Ani are the remains of a medieval Armenian kingdom. They are a collection of stunning churches and beautiful mosques spread over a large area on the border with Armenia. They are also in my opinion, one of the most underrated historical sites in Turkey.Ruins of Ani - North east of Turkey on the border with Armenia In its prime, the city of Ani housed more than 100,000 people who lived within the city walls for … [Read more...]
Kümbet Mosque, aka The Church of 12 Apostles
Full of excitement, I rushed into Kümbet Mosque, a recommended site to visit while in the city of Kars. It was not until, I was on the way out that I felt great shame. You see, I had forgotten to cover my head with a scarf, and this is always requested of women entering mosques. To be fair though, a majority of guidebooks do not call it Kümbet Mosque. They call it the Church of 12 Apostles, a name reflecting its Armenian history and exterior … [Read more...]
Tarihi Yenihan : A Cave Cafe of Gazinatep
No one is sure of the construction year for the Tarihi Yenihan but 1557 is suspected because of a sign on the stone arch leading in. Built in typical Ottoman fashion of a two-storey building centred on a single courtyard with a fountain in the middle, rooms previously used as stables and accommodation for travellers are now shops selling handicrafts, souvenirs, and shoes.Disappointment at the Tariki Yenihan Unfortunately, apart from an … [Read more...]
The Locals of Ani : Turkish Village Culture
There is one benefit of attending tours with Turkish people. They have a complete disregard for timed schedules and planned events. While this may infuriate those in the western world, who live every waking moment according to a diary, I enjoy it because the disruption leads way to surprising events, the chance to meet new people and even more of an insight into Turkish village culture.The Turkish Village of Ani On this particular … [Read more...]
Ayni Zeliha Lake : Myth or Legend?
In the centre of old Urfa, next to the historical pool of Abraham is the Ayni Zeliha Lake. Popular with locals at the weekend, they gather to drink tea in the gardens surrounding it. It is nothing spectacular and my main interest was purchasing food to feed the large fish swimming around in it.There was also the option for a romantic boat ride with hubby but judging from the size of the so called “lake”, I figured we would be going around in … [Read more...]
Gaziantep War Museum and the Siege of Antep
“The city of museums” is a fitting description for the South Eastern, bustling hub of Gaziantep. There are endless amounts of informative exhibitions on every topic but if I were to recommend any particular museum,, I would tell people to head to the exhibition in Gaziantep castle, then onto Gaziantep War Museum. Both concentrate mainly on the same subject, the role of Gaziantep during the Turkish war of independence and more specifically the … [Read more...]
View Over Mesopotamian Plains From Mardin
Mardin in the south-east of Turkey is on the edge of an ancient region called Mesopotamia. When I booked into my hotel, the receptionist said they were not busy and had given me the room with the best view of the Mesopotamian plains. I don't care much for hotel room views, preferring to spend most of my time outdoors and only using the hotel as somewhere to sleep. So I shrugged my shoulders in a "whatever" manner. I was so wrong. I opened my … [Read more...]
A Panoramic View from Sanliurfa Castle
I was looking forward to touring Sanliurfa castle. Believed to have been constructed in 814 AD, I could see it from my hotel room standing majestically at the top of the hill. The week before, I had thoroughly enjoyed visiting the exhibitions of Gaziantep castle and expected the same. Unfortunately, I was severely disappointed. About Sanliurfa Castle It was a steep climb uphill and for a hard core smoker like me, the combined heat meant I had … [Read more...]
Hasankeyf : An Ancient City in Batman, Turkey
The drive to Hasankeyf was short yet memorable. We had left Mardin and were in the countryside, sometimes passing nomadic tribesman herding their sheep. The sky was dark grey and threatening to pour with rain. In a way, it reflected the gloomly mood hanging over Hasankeyf.The Ancient City of Hasankeyf The town is scheduled to be flooded as part of the Gap project to provide Turkey with more power. Along with other areas, the estimated … [Read more...]
The Coppersmith Bazaar of Gaziantep
While the West of Turkey makes every effort to keep up to date with international trends and practices, the same cannot be said of the south east. Now this is not necessary a bad thing because in the big and bustling city of Gaziantep, selected areas dedicate themselves to traditional trades. The local bazaar is one of them and it was the first time I saw a coppersmith at work.Gaziantep Coppersmith Bazaar Called the Gaziantep Bakircilar … [Read more...]
Savsat Sahara Milli Park
Most of my travel plans go smoothly. On the odd occasion though, I do get it wrong and I end up traveling too fast. This means I miss out on some intriguing destinations of which one was Savsat Sahara Milli Park. Located in the North-east region of Turkey, it is a picture perfect landscape scene and I didn’t even stay the night!Savsat Sahara Milli Park - Artvin Turkey Due to prices of accommodation and a haphazard transport system, … [Read more...]
Deyrulzafaran Monastery in Mardin : A Travel Challenge
Deyrulzafaran monastery is seldom mentioned in mainstream tourism for Turkey but it is a must see while in the Mardin region. Built in 493AD for Syriac Orthodox (Assyrian) Christians, it is also called Mor Hananyo or Saffron monastery and was the patriarch seat for the church until 1932.I was eager to visit it, so after looking at a map, discovered the monastery was on the outskirts of Mardin in a region called Tur Abdin. All the bus drivers … [Read more...]
The Gaziantep Mevlevi Museum
We walked up and down the street three times, and after realising we were lost, asked a passer-by where the Gaziantep Mevlevi Lodge Foundation Museum was. Located in the Sahinbey area of the city, it is one of many museums in Gaziantep but we simply could not find it. The passer-by smirked and pointed behind us. We were in the right place all the time but guide books had neglected to mention the entrance is via a courtyard off the Tekke mosque … [Read more...]
Cultural Connections in Kars City
Kars city was a destination on my north to east tour of Turkey. Before I left, I excitedly discussed my plans with two Turkish friends. I was going to spend one day in Kars with a tour group, then extend my stay on my own for three days. The mention of Kars prompted astonished looks on their faces. “You cannot stay in Kars alone” they said. “You will never come back” Now at this point, I was concerned. What did they know that I didn’t? Was … [Read more...]
Gaziantep Culinary Museum : Southeast Cuisine of Turkey
The Gaziantep Culinary Museum is set in an old house down a cobbled side street. I entered a small courtyard and looked around at the two storey building. First impressions were not to expect too much yet it was the most comprehensive museum I have ever visited.Perhaps it was so interesting because of my lack of cooking skills and knowledge of Turkish food. Without any doubt, I differ so much from a Gaziantep woman. I have always struggled … [Read more...]
Kasimiye Medresesi in Mardin : An Old Islamic School
Kasimiye Medresesi stands on the outskirts of old Mardin. Overlooking the flat Mesopotamia plains, it was completed in 1502 and considering its age, is in remarkable condition.It was a short walk downhill to reach it. No traffic passed and the large wooden door was locked when we arrived. We waited for the key holder to arrive. He was an old man, who I estimated to be in his 80s. His age slowed his movements while he produced a large, black … [Read more...]
The Beehive Houses of Harran
I had always assumed the beehive houses of Harran were small and lacking in comfort but when I saw them, I realized I was wrong. The beehive domes are connected by arched passageways to form one big house around a courtyard.Luxury is not a word to describe them, but they are not meant to be a poor man’s house either. Made from bricks and mud, they were also cleverly designed to be cool in summer and warm in winter.The prophet Ibraham is … [Read more...]
The Pool of Abraham : Balikli Göl in Sanliurfa
Sanliurfa is one of my favorite cities in Turkey, even though I originally went there for one reason only. That was to see the pool of Abraham, known as Balikli Göl in Turkish. As a major landmark of the region, it is visited by many Turks as well as foreign tourists.What is the Pool of Abraham aka Balikli Göl? This pool is believed by Muslims to be the place where Abraham was thrown into the fire by Nimrod. Abraham is mentioned in three … [Read more...]
Life in the Coffee Houses of Gaziantep
I love caffeine. I adore it. I think it is a wonderful substance and often drink more than six cups of Nescafe in a day. I can also top that off with a can of Redbull and on odd occasions, have to lie down because my over indulgence has bought on a caffeine headache. The last time I tried to detox from my addiction to caffeine, I could not function. Two hours into the day and I gave up. Therefore, it is a surprise to many people that I hate … [Read more...]
Gaziantep Castle : Remembering the Veterans
I have always had a love of castles but it is nothing to do with fairytale princesses. They just remind me of my childhood. I grew up in the UK city of Nottingham and spent many weekends at the castle acting out stories about Robin Hood and the wicked sheriff. Therefore, it was no surprise that when I arrived in Gaziantep, the first place I wanted to see was the castle.Located in the Seferpasa area of Gaziantep, the castle was easy to find. … [Read more...]
Mesopotamian Ruins of Dara Near the Syrian Border
The Dara Mesopotamia ruins do not often appear in tourism brochures of Turkey despite their importance in the historical world. The city was a strong fortress for the Romans and one of the most populated areas in ancient Mesopotamia.In recent times, the blame for non recognition is probably because it is near the Syrian / Turkish border. We were staying in Mardin and locals said a drive from Dara ruins to the border was just five minutes. … [Read more...]