Along with my guide, I arrived at Aphrodisias in Turkey, the city of sculptures, creativity, ancient ruins, and a story of how the ruins dominated one man’s life nearly 500 years after the city fell into oblivion. Sitting near current-day Aydin city, in Aegean, Turkey, Aphrodisias centred itself around the goddess Aphrodite, who represented love. However, because of small statues found during excavations, historians determined the original city Aphrodite was the mother goddess of fertility called Cybele from the Neolithic period.
About Aphrodisias in Turkey
1: When was Aphrodisias City Built?
Aphrodisias ancient city was built in the 2nd century BC in what was then known as the Roman province of Caria. For roughly five centuries, the sculpture school at Aphrodisias was renowned throughout Rome. People with a need to express creativity would travel from far away to learn from the best. The school ran from the 1st century BC to the 6th century and eventually dwindled when Aphrodisias embraced Christianity. However, famous artists also worked in Rome’s imperial capital, and experts such as Kobonos and Zenan were known for their trademark signature work.
2: Museum and Sculpture School
Standing in the long museum hall, what I saw left me speechless. The windowless hall had just four white walls, a door and a shiny tiled floor reflecting everything because of bright lights shining down from the ceiling. Yet, the so-called Sebasteion Hall, in front of all four walls, was an impressive collection of life-like sculptures. As I walked through the museum holding all the artefacts uncovered at Aphrodisias, now a UNESCO World Heritage site, it was apparent that the artistic talent was not exaggerated.
Despite touring many historical sites in Turkey, I have never seen marble statues with such intricate details. Featuring men, women, children, animals and gods, the remarkable carving of eyes, facial expressions and even body muscle stood out instantly. On statues of prominent citizens like Roman political leaders and high-society women, even the flow of the cloth from clocks draped around them was replicated with exact precision.
3: Excavation of Aphrodisias UNESCO World Heritage Site
Much like other ruined cities in Turkey and around the world, Aphrodisias went through many stages of rule by various empires, but earthquakes, invasions, and wars, left buildings in ruins over hundreds of years. Eventually, Aphrodisias crumbled. It sounds absurd to lose a city, but after desertion by citizens, Mother Nature started work.
The land’s natural movement eventually engulfed buildings, temples, houses, and public spaces. Then one day, in the 1950’s a young photographer driving to Aydin to photograph a new dam lost his way and arrived in Geyre village. As he sat there, drinking tea, he noticed houses built with odd-looking stones.
Even on dusty road tracks, ancient stones sat there in abundance. Locals shrugged their shoulders, said the stones had always been there and were amused at his excitement, but he immediately took photographs and sent them to all major travel publications worldwide. Nobody responded, so he contacted famous Turkish photographer Ara Guler, who sent them to a Turkish archaeologist called Professor Kenan T.Erim, who worked at New York University.
Upon recognizing they had discovered the lost Aphrodisias city, the professor came to Turkey and dedicated the rest of his life to the archaeological site. Unfortunately, he died in 1990, but the Turkish government rewarded his dedication by burying him within Aphrodisias ancient city, next to the Tetrastoon, otherwise known as the gates welcoming pilgrims to pay sacrifices at their way the temple.
As for the village, Kenan’s determination and dedication persuaded the government and local village folk to move 55 homes and one mosque 2 kilometres to the east. Once excavation workers demolished houses and started working on the archaeological site, they discovered many structures from Aphrodisias, including a theatre and marketplace.
4: Visiting Aphrodisias Ancient City in Turkey
I doubted Aphrodisias city ruins could beat my admiration for the museum. Still, my guide’s remarkable ability to portray the history and his passion and enthusiasm for Aphrodisias stood out as we passed the Bouleuterion, where politicians, rulers and governors discussed city issues.
The following path took us past Hadrian’s baths to a 270-meter stadium, the active social scene of Aphrodisias city. Due to social status, women sat in the back seats. At the same time, wealthy people in business and affluent politicians occupied front seats with a full-frontal view of everything, including animal sacrifices, before any grand display of masculinity took place in the sports games.
Next, we arrived at the Aphrodite temple with a view of the large Babadag Mountain. Later converted into a church, the temple appeared, a miss-mash of buildings styles and clash of beliefs, but the best part appeared when we started walking to the exit of Aphrodisias.
4: Ruins of Sebasteion of Aphrodisias
All the museum sculptures came from the Sebasteion ruins, of which excavation was completed in 1983. More importantly, Professor Kenan realised this was a historical gem. A Sebasteion is a temple complex structure, and in Aphrodisias city, it was within a courtyard, with three storeys. Sculptures of Roman emperors or political leaders could never be higher than gods placed on the third storey. Aphrodisias splendidly broke the rules by placing Roman emperors and gods on the same level. Did they succumb to notions that they were just as great as the gods, which eventually led to their downfall?
5: So, is Aphrodisias Worth Visiting?
Without a doubt, everyone should visit Aphrodisias ancient city. However, you could also twin your visit with another ancient city nearby. Laodicea was one of the Seven Churches of Revelation mentioned in the Bible’s New Testament. In its prime, Laodicea was an extremely profitable trade centre that did exceptionally well in wool because nearby plains provided sheep with ample grazing food. The ancient city is near Aphrodisias in Turkey and can be visited on the same day. More here.
