The Grand bazaar of Istanbul is not your average shopping mall. The shopkeepers are not shy about letting you know that they want your money and will do their best to get it. Sixty streets covered with thousand of shops is not easy going and can be overwhelming especially if you are not used to crowds.
My first visit to the grand bazaar was with my Turkish husband and I spent most of my time refusing to let go of his hand. My second visit was with two friends; female and foreign, we were all ripe targets.
We did survive though so I have put together my helpful photo guide
Tips for Surviving The Grand Bazaar of Istanbul
So what is for sale?
Well, it would be quicker to list what is not for sale. I did not spot any farm animals or day trip tickets to outer space. Apart from that, everything else is on display. Streets are grouped according to the products that they sell, which is a tradition dating back to the Ottoman times. Locals shop in the market as well, so you can find some household goods. Unfortunately, there is also quite a lot of junk.
In the grand bazaar, you can buy….
A gas mask if you know something the rest of us don’t!
A cute little guitar with the Turkish flag on it…
A pair of funky boots…
A statue of some cool dude from the Ottoman empire…
Food and drink from this bloke if he stops daydreaming and washes his hands first!
A belly dancing outfit to spice up life in the bedroom…
As much silver as you want….
If silver is not your thing, buy bucket loads of gold!
How to Avoid the Hassle
- Think about faking temporary insanity. Mutter feverishly to yourself and develop awkward twitches. Salesmen are scared of crazy people.
- Your second option is to roll around in the trash and sleep on the streets the night before, so everyone thinks you are a tramp with no money.
- Your third option is to kit yourself out with a burqa and a pair of soundproof earplugs.
Well, by now, you should realize what I am trying to say. There is no normal way to avoid the hassle. You have to deal with it. You are walking into the lion’s den and you are the prey.
Women – If it is that time when PMT is rearing its ugly head, I suggest staying away until your hormones return to normal. After all, there are only so many times you can hear “do you want to buy a carpet?” before deciding to batter the salesman around the head with his lovely Turkish carpets.
Seriously, you have to be a good mood. Just join in with the banter and you can end up having quite a laugh. Many salesman asked me to take their photograph. One asked for a kiss so I told him my husband was around the corner. As for the “do you want to buy a carpet?”, the conversation went something like this.
Salesmen – Do you want to buy a carpet?
Me – No, I bought six yesterday
Salesman – What about your friend?
Me – She bought nine yesterday
Salesman – So you are rich ladies then?
Me – No we are now poor, but that carpet seller is now rich
The salesman laughed and backed off.
Note : I did not get grabbed on the arm by any salesman, but if this does happen to you, simply tell them firmly but nicely to take their hands off you. It is no use getting angry with any of them
A funny salesman
Purchasing Items
As mentioned before, the grand bazaar of Istanbul has a lot of junk for sale but if you find something you like, get your bargaining head on. If you do not bargain, you will be ripped off as the shop owner is expecting you to ask for a lower price, therefore has already put the price up.
As a rule, whatever price he gives you, go back with 50% knocked off. He will laugh, tell you he is poor and has six children to feed, and then come back with another price. You repeat the process until you both agree on a price.
Finding Your Way Around the Grand Bazaar
If you want to know your location at all times, here is a map. Unfortunately walking around the grand bazaar of Istanbul with a map, is the equivalent of sticking a flashing neon sign on your head, saying, “Look at me everyone”
Instead prepare to get lost; it is part of the fun. You can discover so much more. When you are fed up and decide that, you want out, look for the exits signs, which are everywhere.
Readers Questions – If you have been to the grand bazaar in Istanbul, do you give it the thumbs up or thumbs down?
Readers : What about hassle in general, throughout the whole of Turkey, can you deal with it?
Wow. It looks amazing and chaotic. One of those places that I may not love but must see with my own eyes anyway (someday!). Thanks for the tips!
I think if you are in Istanbul it is one of those places that you have to say “been there and done it” otherwise it is just a gigantic maze of shops really
Natalie recently wrote about..Save Water – Drink Wine
This is a wonderful post Natalie! Full of great info. Although I have to say that I didn’t find the salesman too harassing at all, at least in comparison to some other places I’ve been. Will be back in a couple of weeks though, so will find out if it’s much different during a more touristy time.
Dalene recently wrote about..More Travel? Yes Please! Our Next Two Months…
I think a lot depends on your character Dalene. Nervous people and the ones that look like a fish out of water tend to get hassled more!
Natalie recently wrote about..Bars in Taksim – Nightlife For Females and Foreigners
The bazaar should be on everyone’s ‘must see’ list for Istanbul. These days you can even get a latte!
Jack Scott recently wrote about..The Mausoleum of Halicarnassus
I did not know that Jack – I like lattes as well! I really wanted a fresh orange juice from the store in the pictures but his hand were in every unhygienic place you can think of.
Natalie recently wrote about..Tourism In Turkey. Stats and Plans For The Future. Infographic
i had so much fun at the bazaar, but it was so overwhelming. I found that if I walked forward [and passed] the carpet sellers, no one really stopped me.
jenjenk recently wrote about..France: Versailles
Now you mention it Jen, it is the carpet sellers that are the worst for the hassle. Once you have run that gauntlet the rest is quite easy
Natalie recently wrote about..Dolmabahce Palace – The Last Days of the Ottoman Empire
once again a really good post with some great pics. The Grand Bazaar is a must, as is the book sellers area just outside; a stimulating feast for the senses.
Alan recently wrote about..Possessed II – Karagöz and Hacivat Bey
UH! Never saw the book sellers area Alan – Now you tell me!!
Natalie recently wrote about..Galata Bridge : The Happening Place to Be
you make it sound wonderful but i think i will give it a miss i cant stand the market in Altinkum because of the hassle so i dont think i would last 2 minutes in Istanbul
The hassle has got better over the years i can just about stand the open air market in Didim now but i never go to the one in Altinkum
i do like the lamp shades in your photos but i think i would buy one from the shop
The lamp shades are nice Di but a bit too pricey for me. Long time since I have been to the markets here so I had become used to no hassle. The grand bazaar was not bad though, I expected worse. Maybe it was because I knew I did not have any money to spend!
Natalie recently wrote about..Photo Essay – How Turkish Carpets Are Made
I loved the conversation you had with the carpet seller! Classic.
Nora – The Professional Hobo recently wrote about..Financial Travel Tip #28: Managing Your Travel Savings Account
You should have heard the conversation I had with a waiter under Galata Bridge, that was hassling us for telephone numbers, that was even more classic. Another story for another time!
Natalie recently wrote about..Horse Racing in Turkey – How NOT To Blend In With the Locals
Natalie–
I’ve enjoyed reading your posts as we prepare for our trip to Turkey. Can you write a bit about where you can and cannot take photos in Turkey? Do the shop owners hassle you when you take photos?
Hi Michelle, Shop owners will try and strike up a conversation with you while you are taking photos but once they realise that you are not interested, they tend to back off.
Photos are normally a “no no” in museums but there are signs displayed.
Other than that it is just military and police buildings. If in doubt, just ask. I have never had a problem with taking photos.
Great photos Natalie! And I love the tips!!
Glad you liked the photos Terry, I had so many and it was hard which to choose to put in the article
Natalie recently wrote about..Save Water – Drink Wine
Wow, I love your tactics on brushing off those persistent sellers. I wish I can be as subtle as you do.
It is all about staying in a good mood while being direct Howie. do that and you can end up having a banter with them at the same time.
Natalie recently wrote about..Bars in Taksim – Nightlife For Females and Foreigners
This takes me back to when I visited the Grand Bazaar about 10 years ago…I give it the thumb’s up, even if you dont like crowds and being hassled, it is just something you have to visit and experience. One thing I never knew quite how to handle was shopkeepers offering one apple tea, never knew if they were being friendly or just getting you to drink their tea and then you feel guilty if you dont buy their wares…. loved the apple tea though!
Cynthia recently wrote about..G is for the GARDEN ROUTE and my next SECRET find
I feel awkward with the tea as well Cynthia. A chance to get you sitting in the shop, looking at their goods and more chances to sell you something. As a rule, I don’t accept the tea, unless I am serious about buying something from them. Then I will not be put in any awkward positions.
Natalie recently wrote about..The Ghost Village Of Kayakoy
What a beautiful set of photos. It looks like an overwhelming but wonderful place to go, and practice my haggling skills!
Definitely overwhelming but one of those places that you have to go to when in Istanbul, just to say that you have been there and done it
Natalie recently wrote about..The Ghost Village Of Kayakoy
It can get annoying to be constantly hassled by the merchants, but overall I really liked the Grand Bazaar. I’m still not completely comfortable with the haggling process but at least I still went for it and got lower prices.
Ali recently wrote about..Culture Shock is Sneaky
Well done Ali. Sometimes I can get a good bargain and other times, I just do not have the energy. Glad you visited it to say you have been there and done it.
Natalie recently wrote about..Horse Racing in Turkey – How NOT To Blend In With the Locals
Great information! Planning a head to Turkey this fall and most definitely will not be missing the grand bazaar.
Annie of TravelShus recently wrote about..Kangaroo Island – Visiting Seal Bay
Do not miss Annie and get practising with those bargaining skills.
Natalie recently wrote about..Dolmabahce Palace – The Last Days of the Ottoman Empire
I remember being so overwhelmed here on my first international trip as an adult (after university). Would love to go back when I am not as intimidated by the size and the bartering in a foreign language.
Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently wrote about..Eating My Way Through BA Part 4: My Favorite Brunch
I think you will be alright on your second visit Stephanie. My first visit was daunting but on my second, I felt so confident. Most of the sellers who are selling to tourists also speak English
Natalie recently wrote about..Galata Bridge : The Happening Place to Be
I love bazaars – would be great to visit this one.
Don Faust recently wrote about..Grape Expectations: Eugene, Oregon & the 5th Street Market
I get the feeling that you would actually be OK in this bazaar Don. I do not think you would feel intimidated at all, never meet you in person but it is the impression I get from your online presence.
Love these detailed shots from around the Bazaar.
AlexBerger recently wrote about..Dinner and a Sunset in Assisi
Glad you like them Alex, I ended up with hundreds of good ones and it was really hard to choose my favourites
Natalie recently wrote about..Galata Bridge : The Happening Place to Be
Wow! Those guitars look pretty cool! I wish I ever had the chance to take a walk through a bazar like this. I’m sure you can find a lot of treasures there…
Eva recently wrote about..Bilder an einer Ausstellung
I liked the guitars as well Eva, thought they were really quirky! The only chance you will get to be in this place is if you go to Istanbul and it is one of the greatest cities in the world so make it your next holiday!
Natalie recently wrote about..Photo Essay – How Turkish Carpets Are Made
Those boots are AWESOME – I would totally wear those. The belly dancing outfits, on the other hand…. =P
Christy @ Technosyncratic recently wrote about..Photo(s) of the Week: Bagnères-de-Luchon in the French Pyrénées
I posted the picture of the boots on my FB page and a lot of other people said they would wear them as well. I was really surprised, not my kind of thing. Neither is the belly dancing outfits!
Natalie recently wrote about..Tourism In Turkey. Stats and Plans For The Future. Infographic
Beautiful photos Natalie! We didn’t go to the Grand Bazaar as heard it was more like shops rather than stalls compared to the Spice Markets. Love your tips and story about the carpets
Cole @ Four Jandals recently wrote about..Busabout Sail Turkey Review
I found the spice market and grand baazar much the same. Couldn’t really spot the difference apart from more spices and it is smaller. Glad you like the photos.
Natalie recently wrote about..Dolmabahce Palace – The Last Days of the Ottoman Empire
Lovely! I had such a wonderful time wandering the alleys of Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar, I miss the city so much.
Angela recently wrote about..Bulls, horses and roses to celebrate Saint Catherine of Alexandria in Sardinia
I remember reading you were thinking of making plans to come back for a holiday Angela. Are you going to?
Natalie recently wrote about..Galata Bridge : The Happening Place to Be
I’ll be there in 4 weeks. First time ever. Can’t wait and your photos make me wanna go there now
Four weeks will fly by Dorata and you will enjoy it for sure. Make sure you read the other posts I have done on Istanbul and certainly try to visit the Dolmabahce Palace if you can
Natalie recently wrote about..Dolmabahce Palace – The Last Days of the Ottoman Empire
hhahahaha I love your conversation with the carpet seller! That is priceless!
He was not ready for that one Jade – overall though I found them harmless if you join in the banter with them. I can understand though how some people can feel intimated
Natalie recently wrote about..Bars in Taksim – Nightlife For Females and Foreigners
Splendid Natalie. I have tackled the Grand Bazaar many, many times, bravely, always on my own. It’s not easy and you need a tom of good humor. Next time, I think I’ll carry a rolled up carpet over my shoulder and offer it to the carpet dealers for sale. I just want to see that face!!
What a fantastic idea Inka – I would love to photograph the look on their faces when you do that!
Natalie recently wrote about..Dolmabahce Palace – The Last Days of the Ottoman Empire
It was a nice touch to add tips on the hassling, Its definitely a big part of the culture and I’m truthfully not fond of it.
You do have to calibrate your mood mentally to deal with it. Its best to remind yourself that locals have to deal with it too. I wasn’t in need of anything so I didn’t really have to subject myself to more of it than I needed to.
LozinTransit recently wrote about..Scams in Istanbul: The reality of trusting (3 of 3)
Hi Loz,
Do you mean the local expats or the local Turks get hassled as well?
Turks never seem to let hassle bother them, I have noticed that in some of the seaside resorts
Natalie recently wrote about..Galata Bridge : The Happening Place to Be
Oh I so wish I’d read this blog before I went to the Grand Bazaar! I could have done with the ‘prepare yourself to be hassled to death’ advice.
Sadly for me, I was an unprepared gal by myself, and found the constant hassle too much. I went in with money that I’d saved just for that experience, and came out without spending a dime. Instead I did a ridiculous walk past, craning my neck to try to see as I moved too quickly to be harassed.
Not ideal! But I did love the colours, the actual market space and pretty much everything.. Except the hassle. Next time I’ll be better prepared!
I do not think I could go in on my own Amanda – I was able to be good humoured and have a banter because my friends were with me but on my own, I would be very apprehensive.
They lost out anyway as you did not spend a dime!
Natalie recently wrote about..The Ghost Village Of Kayakoy
I loved the Grand Bazaar. It was on my first visit to Turkey and I loved the laid back joviality of it (“Do you want to buy my rubbish?” was one of the favourite lines I heard). I love the way you have beaufiul wares next to tacky stuff made in Taiwan, the noise, the crowds, the smells of spices and loukums. We looked at carpets, drank tea, tried on leather jackets, tasted loukums, enjoyed the jokes and ended up just buying a couple of keyrings but never felt hassled. Not in the same way that I had felt hassled in the souk in Tunis for example. Nobody touched or made me feel physically uncomfortable. It was good-natured banter like on many of the markets that you used to have in the North of England.
That is great Vicky. When you can have banter with them and laugh and joke it makes it more fun
Hello Natalie,
I’m excited to be a part of your blog as I am getting ready to move to Ankara Turkey this August. I will be studying at Bilkent University for four months. I am with the University of California study abroad program.
I’m trying to learn as much about Turkey as possible before I leave and your site looks like a great place to start. Thanks for the info and expect a lot of questions from me in the coming months.
Javier
Welcome to my blog Javier. You will have a great time when you move here in August. Ask as many questions as you want
I plan on leaving early from California to arrive in Ankara around August 16th. If possible I want to leave my baggage at Bilkent and travel until my start date of Sept 16th. My question to you is: I have heard that I can take a cheap airplane flight to Germany from Turkey. How cheap is it in reality? I would like to arrive in Ankara and fly to Munich. Munich I would like to travel by train and bus to Vienna-Budapst and make my way through the Balkans until finally arriving back in Istanbul. Do you have any experience traveling through the Balkans? Do you suggest I travel Turkey only during that time?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Hi Javier, wow – I would have to get the map out to look at all these places but it seems to me like you are doing a lot of traveling in just a month. Any reason why you are doing that, rather than just sticking to Turkey? You can get cheap flights from Germany to Turkey depending on whether your definition of cheap is the same as mine
We ended up going twice. Both were good times, although the second time with a map actually made me feel better about wandering. I figure I look like a tourist anyway, why should I actually BE lost just because I look it.
I found the easiest way to deal with the hassle was literally to ignore them and keep walking as if you didn’t hear them. If you aren’t talking with a friend for them to pick up a language, it is kind of neat to see what they switch to next.
I don’t haggle well or happily, but I ended up going into the leather section and do so for a new wallet. Worked out ok, though in the end I just kept repeating the same price because that was literally all I had in my pocket to pay.
We found one of the better Doner places outside of the bazaar between gates 18 and 19 and went back explicitly to them the next time.
Andrew recently wrote about..Dogs in Public in Germany
Strange that you should mention if you are not talking with a friend, how they switch because over the course of three days, I was spoken to in German and Turkish. One bloke even thought I was from Slovakia for some reason
Well done on the bargain as well, I ended up buying nothing. Wish I had known about your kebab place as I did not find anywhere that particularly bowled me over
Natalie recently wrote about..Tourism In Turkey. Stats and Plans For The Future. Infographic
A useful guide and beautiful photos! I loved the Grand Bazaar!
Wanderplex recently wrote about..Lost your camera? Here are some steps you can take to get it back
Great photos! Thanks for helping take us back to the Grand Bazaar. What a crazy place!
GoTravelFurther recently wrote about..Travel News: May 31– Anthony Bourdain is coming to CNN and more
This is not the turkey that I know, I was told to take off my cross and cover my head with a scarf.
Turkey was not a country till 1923, didn’t have an alphabet until that year. It was largely stolen from the indigenous people of Turkey: Greeks, Armenians, Kurds, some latin and arabic.
Christianity started in Anatolia, but the Turks/Ottomans destroyed it, burnt churches, or worse converted them to Mosques like the St. Hagia Sophia in Istanbul (they changed the name from Constaniople)
Sorry, but Turkey gets a ZERO in human rights from me and now it is being taken over by Islamic Terrorists AKP party that is under the direction of Imam Fethullah Gulen (Gulen Movement) his followers control everything: Education, media, politics, police, judicary system and now the military.
thanks but no thanks.
I will pass on Turkey until they can figure out what they are doing and until the EU accepts them which will probably be never.
Sam – I find it strange that you should be told to cover your head in the grand bazaar when I never have and I saw many other women in there without headscaves. Maybe your guide or friend was OTT
Also I hope Turkey never gets into the EU, the cost of travelling around this beautiful country would go up ten fold. Imagine all that bureaucracy and red tape as well. Thanks but no thanks!
Re the Ottoman empire – what is done is done. I don’t see the point in dwelling on their past. Same as the people who mention America and destruction of life for the native red Indian, when it was occupied by foreigners.
Re the AKP and human rights, the people of Turkey voted them in and will vote them out if they see fit. If you want to discuss politics, I think, you will have more luck on a political blog than a travel one.
For us Turkey was a great experience for travelling by bicycle. Please eat all you can for us, we are already missing the food!
No problem with eating Roberto, can do that for you. Can stuff my face all day long, especially with doner kebabs and gozleme.
Good tips about how to stay calm in the midst of haggling and pushy salesmen.
Mary @ Green Global Travel recently wrote about..ENDANGERED SPECIES SPOTLIGHT- Hawaiian Monk Seal
Thanks Mary – There are only certain days when I can not handle pushy salesman but normally I can take them with a pinch of salt.
Dear Natalie: I am working on a quilting challenge with 12 poets and 12 quilters call Poetry in Free Motion. The poem I am interpreting is about a woman dreaming of sites in Turkey. I have made a wall hanging plus working on a fabric book with photos from Turkey. The Bazaar is mentioned in the poem and I would like to seek your permission to use the first photo on this page at the top of the Bazaar. My deadline is September 15th in order to complete my project for a poetry reading and show.
I would appreciate your permission to use your photo in my project. Thank you. Diane Billiard
Hi Diane, you are more than welcome to use the photo. I hope your project goes well and you enjoy the poetry reading and show.
Natalie recently wrote about..14 Famous Landmarks of Istanbul
What a colorful place, literally and figuratively. I’m not a big shopper, but love browsing and people watching in places like this. Nice pictures.
Chad @RoadDogTravel recently wrote about..The Arc de Triomphe in Paris, France
Best place to people watch Chad, Loads of people all day
Oh, I LOVE those guitars with the Turkish flag and those boots! I would have so much trouble not spending tons of money here. Great photos.
The Time-Crunched Traveler (Ellen) recently wrote about..How we find time to travel (and how you can, too!)
The guitars are my favourite as well Ellen. so quirky!
Great article Natalie, I love Kapali Carsi, though always feel uneasy to make a decent purchase. The building itself is a feast to the eye though and I can spend hours wondering.. loved the photos!
Ozlem’s Turkish Table recently wrote about..Simply delicious Aegean flavors;Eggplants, tomatoes, onions, peppers cooked in olive oil & Fascinating Didyma
I feel uneasy making purchases as well. Prefer to browse instead!
Hi Natalie, I was looking for some information about Turkey and I found your lovely blog. Congrats. I’m really impressed and happy to get to know these all news. You’re a really talented writer and your shots are wonderful!
Best regards from Sarajevo
Thank you Doronette. Glad you like it. Had a look around your blog as well. You are doing some great work there.
Definitely a must do in Istanbul. Great photos.
Thanks Ray
Hi Natalie!
it looks like the bazaar is too big… I love to visit turkey and think it is one of the most beautiful country in world. Especially istanbul is perfect and must visit place… Hope to be there someday… Thanks for the wonderful post.
Come as soon as you can Anwar – it is a wonderful country
The Grand bazaar of Istanbul may not be the average shopping mall, but I didn’t hear anyone going to Instanbul and miss it. It is a piece of what makes Istanbul special and I think everyone should at least see the atmoshpere there
Lori recently wrote about..Turkey’s best city breaks
It definitely does define Istanbul
THis really brings back memories! In the bazaar, I’ve never seen so much gold in my life!
Justin @ True Nomads recently wrote about..28 Interesting Facts about Spain
Heard they kind of stock up on their guns under the counter to protect it all
My husband and I are heading to Instanbul in August and the Grand Bazaar is on the ‘must see’ list. It looks amazing, cant wait to go!
Glad to hear you are finally coming Nicole. You will enjoy it so much