My visit to the flower passage in Istanbul was unexpected but it turned out to be one of my favourite places. Two friends, now used to my obsession with photography and history suggested it as an ideal place to have lunch. Situated on Istiklal Avenue, and known to the Turks as Çiçek Pasaj, it is a place to eat, drink, and be merry.
Therefore, you may think I recommend Çiçek Pasaj as a great watering hole. Well, I will not because our meal was cold, while the service was awful. We picked the wrong restaurant.
What did intrigue me though? The architecture was unlike any other building I had seen in Istanbul and in a straight row on the first level, was old picture portraits of characteristic people.
My interest had spiked and I took to the internet to find out more. I still have one question left though and I wonder if readers can help me.
Flower Passage – From a Theatre to Restaurants
Flower passage originally started life as a theatre in the 1800’s, then converted into rows of posh shops after a fire. During the Russian revolution of 1917, people fleeing Russia often came to Istanbul and they acquired the new shops, to sell flowers, hence the new name of flower passage or Çiçek Pasaj in Turkish.
By the 1960s, the shops became traditional Turkish Meyhanes and were a favourite for workers who wanted to be jolly and spend all their hard earned money on booze. Over time, the building lost its charm until renovation in the 1990’s made it the place to be seen on Istiklal avenue.
My Question – Who are the people in the portraits?
I really do not know. Despite spending hours researching the internet and asking numerous people, I have no answer. This is when I start to think that I am some kind of freak, as no one seems to care or be interested apart from me.
Maybe the portraits are just old advertising posters from a nostalgic past. Maybe they are just models who have no connection with Istanbul what so ever.
If it turns out to be just that, then I will be highly disappointed as their faces and smiles captured my attention and made the flower passage of Istiklal Avenue, one of my favourite places
Readers Questions on Çiçek Pasaj
Have you been to Çiçek Pasaj?
Can you shed any light on the portrait posters adorning the walls?
. . noticed these in the past and asked questions – got shrugging response so assume they are just some arty-farty ‘period’ pics to give the place atmosphere.
Have never eaten there because Istanbulu friends advised against – J and I always hit the meyhanes just up from the Babylon Jazz Club (near Pera Palace), never been disappointed there.
Alan recently wrote about..My Beloved Has Many Faces – By Nahida the exiled Palestinian
Reading reviews after the day Alan, it seems that quite a few people recommended eating elsewhere!
Natalie recently wrote about..The Ghost Village Of Kayakoy
I’m afraid I have no idea, but I can see why you’re intrigued by the photos. I’m captivated by that era (early 20th century) and would be curious, too. Especially wonder about the girl with the telephone.
Sophie recently wrote about..San Gimignano: tall towers and heavenly wine
Yes, she interested me as well. Not the kind of pictures that I expected to see as that picture, to me is kind of American influenced.
Natalie recently wrote about..Bars in Taksim – Nightlife For Females and Foreigners
I really wish I had know about your blog before I went to Turkey! Each post gives me a reason to go back!
Alexandra recently wrote about..Travel Porn: Oia, Santorini, Greek Islands
There is always plenty of reasons to come back Alexandra. I can come up with 100 more if you need persuading!
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Ahh, Cicek Pasaji.. that is a place so well worth going, just for the architecture and the ambience, as you say. None of the food I ate there stood up but the ambience, just soaking up all the architecture is so well worth it. I reckon the photos maybe the young Turks/ late Ottomans’ obsession for “becoming European” at those times. Istiklal Street were the place to be to feel European at those times and they inspired the French and all the chic. So maybe that’s the extension of this admiration -my guess!
Thanks for taking me back to Cicek Pasaji!
Ozlem’s Turkish Table recently wrote about..Baby Artichokes Poached in Olive Oil with Peas, Carrots and Almonds – Zeytinyagli Enginar
I like that guess Ozlem – now you mention it there is a European feel to them. That suggestion gives me an angle to research as well so thank you
Natalie recently wrote about.. The Colourful Greek Island of Meis
Did you find the “right” restaurant?
No – We decided not to eat there anymore!
Natalie recently wrote about..French Street in Istanbul
I’m so close from Turkey as never before. I am currently traveling through Romania. But this time my husband and I will not cross the border to Bulgaria. We’ll go north from here. Still, your blog makes it very tempting to change our plan and go south towards Turkey.
Laura @Travelocafe recently wrote about..Enjoying the Sunset from a Boat on Guadalquivir River. Seville, Day 2
Change your plans Laura! You will not regret it, I promise
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For sure, it is intriguing to see old photos like this around Istanbul. I wonder if there is any connection to the Armenian photographer Maryam ?ahinyan that was based in Istanbul for so many years??? Hope you find your answer!
Well, that is an angle to research Joy. Also a new photographer for me to learn about. I am currently investigating photographers that have been dominate in Turkey and he is a new one for me so thank you very much.
Natalie recently wrote about..Galata Tower and a 360-Degree View of Istanbul
Despite the bad food, it does look like an interesting place. Maybe you can just pretend the pictures are of the people who used to live and work in that area at that time? Even if it’s not true
Ali recently wrote about..Istanbul in Photos – Agya Sophia
I think I will do that Ali as will be major disappointed if they turn out just to be advert posters
Natalie recently wrote about..The Basilica Cistern of Istanbul and the Heads of Medusa
It’s strange that you weren’t able to find out who those people were from the internet – usually the internet knows everything! =P I think this place looks beautiful, and I’d definitely enjoy having a long lunch here.
Christy @ Technosyncratic recently wrote about..Photo Essay: A Glimpse of Amsterdam
Not sure about the meal Christy – now I have mentioned that our meal was bad, everyone else seems to recommend not to eat there. think I might be in luck with the portrait pictures as well because a follower on FB found a website that talks about them. Assuming the website was just not matching up for my search terms but looking forward to reading it
Great story and fantastic photos…
We ate there once but it was a long time ago. The food was good but it was evening and the noise was deafening as all the restaurants were packed.
Not sure I could eat there in the evening when it was packed John. I like peace and quiet for my meal and space around me as well.
Natalie recently wrote about..Galata Tower and a 360-Degree View of Istanbul
So many neat things off of Istikal. I know we walked that street several times and never saw any of the cool off-street stuff. This definitely looks like a neat place to just take pictures if nothing else. I like the rowsof windows that make it look like it is outside, despite the roof which makes it feel inside.
My first thought was that they were shop owners somehow.
Andrew recently wrote about..Football Convert
We spent a whole day doing all the little things off the avenue. quite good really as I never rated it before and always preferred sultan Ahmet area. you have just gave me a new idea for a post – 5 things to do off Istiklal avenue
Natalie recently wrote about..The Basilica Cistern of Istanbul and the Heads of Medusa
What a beautiful and unusual place!
A Montrealer Abroad recently wrote about..6 things you may not know about French Canadians
It is beautiful, just a shame about the food!!
http://www.tarihicicekpasaji.com/
Merhaba,
the official website says the pictures are of some regulars (is that the correct word), and of managers of the old ‘meyhanes’. There is also the picture of Madamme Anahit, who every night would go round playing her acordeon.
The best thing when you go there, is perhaps to have a beer and chips, or stuffed mussels, etc. just standing. Engin
Hi Engin, thank you so much for posting the link to their website. I am glad to learn that they were actual people and not just advert posters. The beer and stuffed mussels sounds good.
Natalie recently wrote about..Galata Tower and a 360-Degree View of Istanbul
Interesting place. I like how the photos of people are setup in the windows of the building
Mary @ Green Global Travel recently wrote about..10 Most Threatened Rivers for Your World Travel Bucket List
I think that is the main attraction Mary – can not be the food as that was terrible!!
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