Sitting on the foothills of the Kaçkar mountains, the gorgeous green Ayder plateau is one place in Turkey that captured my full attention. Numerous Turkish friends had told me about its beauty and simplicity, but I did not realize the plateau would leave me with an overwhelming urge to return.
It is in the north-east region near Rize and at the time of my visit in June, the coastal resorts of the south and west were receiving temperatures of mid 30s while I went to sleep, dressed in jumpers, socks and with two warm blankets.
The temperatures were average during the day but at night-time, drastically dropped. That blew my mind instantly because out of all the years I have spent in Turkey, I have never felt cold in the last month of June.
Early tourism in Ayder Plateau
Up until the 1980s, the Ayder plateau had always been used as a camping base for hikers who wanted to proceed further up the mountain. Over time, people came to appreciate the beauty of the plateau and accommodation choices upgraded from camping sites to traditional wooden hotels.
The hotel
Of the camping sites that remain, there are signs asking visitors to be on the lookout for bears, who come down from the higher plateaus when food sources are low. Rather than be concerned, I found this potential danger to be a quirky aspect of the area, with hopes that I would see one and capture the best photo of my life. I was out of luck.
In among the traditional hotels, is a unique landmark, the Gelin Tulu waterfall. Translated into “bride’s veil”, it gushes down the hillside, only freezing in winter when low temperatures can turn it to ice. I soon came to see so many waterfalls in the black sea region that the attraction wore off however, this waterfall is still my favourite.
I loved everything about the Ayder plateau. The place is unique, quite unlike any other destinations in the country. I loved the fact that locals used to let their cows roam the hillside unsupervised. Apparently, they never lose an animal. At sunset, all animals instinctively know the way home and they come back without prompting.
I want to return to Ayder Plateau
I spent one night in the Ayder plateau before moving on. It was not long enough. I discovered that the locals have a mixed culture of Laz and Hemsin but I never got the chance to make friends with them so I could learn about their lives and traditions. I never went further up the mountain to explore other plateaus traditionally called yaylas by the Turks.
I only touched the surface of what the Ayder plateau has to offer.
Turkey has always been a diverse country but it is not until I went from the beaches of the west coast to the mountains of the northeast that I realized just how diverse it really is. So it is not only a case of wanting to return. I have to return.
Menu for a local restaurant
My quest is to learn as much as possible about Turkey and its people, so this region is important. The landscape, weather, people, food, traditions, and music are all completely different to any other place within the country. Some people would consider me well traveled in Turkey, but after visiting the Ayder plateau, I now realize that I have only scratched the surface.
Welcome sign from the hotel
Readers Question : What do you think? If you have not been, would you visit the Ayder plateau?
Thank you for sharing, Natalie. It is a great place! We stayed there for 2 days & loved it. Unfortunately it was rainy and foggy, but we managed to hike a bit. Definitely plan to go there for a longer time. Have you tried Laz Boregi, which is specific for this region? Have you been to the baths? Hot water saved us after hiking in the cold.
I did not make it to the baths Alexey and that is one reason why I want to return. I only really scratch the surface of what this destination has to offer
Natalie recently wrote about..Sumela Monastery and the Black Madonna
This is a breathtakingly beautiful place, Natalie.
Thanks for sharing and happy Sunday to you, miss : )
Mark recently wrote about..Changing the World One Small World at a Time
You are welcome Mark – Glad you liked the article
Natalie recently wrote about..14 Famous Landmarks of Istanbul
Just stunning. You’re just a gad about girl!
Jack Scott recently wrote about..Jack and Liam Go To Gran Canaria
Cheers Jack – hoping to get off again on my travels this month so might be emailing you with some work for when you get back from GC
Natalie recently wrote about..Is Trabzon The City Of Love?
I have been to Ayder and its yaylas many many years back. After so many years, I can say that my several hours in a yayla up there was one of the peaceful, quietest hours of my life. I would like to go back and show it to my husband as well. Uzungol was nice as well but seemed more touristic to me for some reason.
Ilke recently wrote about..Wrapping up Black Mountain…
I agree about Uzungol IIke. It was very touristic but not like the tourist resorts on the south or west. I liked the fact that we could still get out and about with nature
Natalie recently wrote about..The Galata Mevlevi Whirling Dervish House and Museum
Just as I was thinking where have you been here comes the glorious Ayder!! Have been there many years ago, so lovely to refreshen memories, great photos!:) I would love to go back to Ayder, hope soon!
Ozlem’s Turkish Table recently wrote about..Gluten-free and Delicious; Pasta with anchovies, garlic, capers and parsley, in tomato sauce
I have been so busy with work Ozlem that time is just flying by. Lots more articles to come on the Black sea coast though
Natalie recently wrote about..The Colourful Wooden Mosque of Maral
What a beautiful region…if based solely on photos alone, I wouldn’t have pegged this as Turkey. Great stuff!
D.J. – The World of Deej recently wrote about..The Historic Florida Capitol – Pic of the Week
Unbelievable isn’t it DJ. so different from the beaches, Istanbul and Cappadocia
Natalie recently wrote about..The Grand Hagia Sophia of Trabzon
Who knew Turkey looked like part of the Alps — or Scandinavia? Thanks for a visual reminder that travel never ceases to surprise and delight.
Terry at Overnight New York recently wrote about..SoHo Grand: Holiday Flash Sale
You are welcome Terry – glad you enjoyed.
Natalie recently wrote about..Photo Of The Ataturk Pavilion in Trabzon
Interesting photo article. Most interesting fact for me: There are not many differences between mountain huts in Turkey and my native country Austria.
Travelwriticus recently wrote about..Cooking class at Kitchen 12 in Graz, Austria
That is an interesting fact TW – I think many people would be surprised to learn that
Natalie recently wrote about..The Shoe Shine Scam of Istanbul
For your sake, I hope you don’t get to take that really good picture of the bear.
Ha ha – Think of much of a prized photo that would have been though
Natalie recently wrote about..What’s Dave Doing in Turkey?
Wonderful, would love to visit!
Angela recently wrote about..Fairies’ houses and giants’ tombs, strolling around Mamoiada, Sardinia
Do it Angela – next time you come to Turkey
Natalie recently wrote about..Photo Of The Ataturk Pavilion in Trabzon
. . another good post with some evocative photos. We’ll be spending time there next June when we’ll combine it with hunting out your Blue Slug that shouldn’t be there
Alan recently wrote about..The Other Dalyan 2
Look forward to reading about your trip Alan – will be an interesting one
Natalie recently wrote about..The Colourful Wooden Mosque of Maral
Sounds like a destination right up my alley! Haven’t been to Eastern Turkey but I’ve heard it’s quite different from the West. One day!
Cam recently wrote about..Icebergs, Glaciers and Mountains: Photos of Greenland
Really different. Beginning to think I have wasted years hanging around the coastal resorts of the west
Natalie recently wrote about..Is Trabzon The City Of Love?
It looks like such a gorgeous area! Definitely different from the central and western parts of Turkey we saw a few months ago. I love how different Turkey is from one side to the other.
Ali recently wrote about..Is a Fear of Getting Sick While Traveling Holding You Back?
I too was surprised at just how different it was Ali. I also loved the differences immediately. No beaches but wonderful views
Natalie recently wrote about..Sumela Monastery and the Black Madonna
Such a differnt side to Turkey, thanks for sharing
Adela @FourJandals recently wrote about..Biking the Rail Trail in Costa Brava, Spain
No problem Adele = glad you liked
It makes me want to pack my bags right now.
Understand that statement Michael – I want to pack my bags and return now
Natalie recently wrote about..The Ruins of Ani – The City of 1001 Churches
What an incredibly beautiful place! It must be so amazing to wake up to views like that. Did you find it difficult being in a more remote area like that – as in, did people speak English?
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Didn’t speak English Wanderplex but I speak basic Turkish so it was not that difficult
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